What's Next For Menswear, As Per Leading Designers
Esquire India zooms in on the strongest directions men’s style is headed in, as attested to by our designers
There's a notion that winter's where they are —tweeds and textures, big boots and bigger coats, luscious layers and natty knits. That summer style is all about some basic Henleys, linen suits, Hawaiian shirts, chinos and the occasional polo. And indeed, it has been so for many years, when we looked forward to winter to replenish our wardrobes, imbuing them with much-needed zing.
That was then, though. Today, summer is as much a potent season of style as the colder months. The best bit? There’s something for every guy. From the contemporary veshti (the men’s wraparound from southern India) to rad sportswear, the fluid sensuality of a fur-clad gent to legions of goths stomping to the rumble of roaring motorcycles—these designers have got us covered. Get set for a season of unabashed celebration of men’s style.
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Sabysachi: We firmly believe India is not a third-world economy but a first-world civilisation. It is the birthplace of luxury, where it has always belonged.
Menswear's Newest Terms of Engagement
Fashion loves its buzzwords. Some loved, some loathed.
‘Trends’ is one such despised term we hear oft repeated around us at the shows. Many commentators and POVers (yes, talking of terms, just coined this one, POVers, that’s point-of-view-ers) talk of how trends shouldn’t be followed. However, designers, as well as fashion observers who assert that often either follow them or unintentionally become a part of the trend cycle. That’s because trends, at the end of the day, are the directions where thought is moving, resulting in coherent choices that reflect a certain uniformity in aesthetic.
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We can deny or underplay the concept of trends as much as we may like, but what if like collective consciousness, there’s collective design consciousness as well? By that theory, the frequency at which design minds across the globe vibrate, they often resonate to craft what we call trends. Which is why similar colours and styles emerge in creative churns of (otherwise disconnected) designers from various parts of the world at the same time. Of course some lead the design brigade, staying ahead of the curve, and others simply follow the trends that emerge.
Indian fashion has its own set of favourite terms and menswear moves this summer. Take note, gentlemen.
Rajesh Pratap Singh: We don't follow trends. We never have.
JJ Valaya: Instead of following trends, one must simply stand in front of the mirror and decide what works for them.
Fluid
The term 'fluid' is one of the most prevalent ones in recent menswear annals, and it offers a few connotations.
One—the blurring of gender boundaries when it comes to dressing. While these brackets have been challenged many times in menswear timelines (notably by designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood and Thierry Mugler—and icons like David Bowie, Prince and Mick Jagger in the ’80s and ’90s), recent movements of social media-induced fashion democracy and inclusivity, and breaking the codes of binary identity have brought the fluid dimension to the absolute forefront.
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Numerous brands—from high-end titles like Gucci and Marc Jacobs to high-street giants such as Zara and H&M have created ‘gender neutral’ lines. Think about the sartorial expressions of today’s icons—Billy Porter in a tux gown, Harry Styles in, well, everything, Jared Leto’s off-kilter clothes and made-up face, Ranveer Singh and Jim Sarbh endorsing the bold and the offbeat, and even Brad Pitt—in a skirt. These are all moments of shifting perspectives.
Two— Fluid is also a term for easy, breezy, comfort-focused clothing. Think garments in soft cottons and airy linens, crafted in flow-y, drape-y silhouettes, and incorporating relaxed tailoring.
Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna: First and foremost is the fabric. The choice of fabric can transform the entire look. Cottons, linens or even lighter silks—we strongly recommend finer weaves and breathable fabrics that look luxe, fall fluidly and drape well. Pastel tones and earthy shades will define the season.
Texture
Texture is a big buzzword. It’s the touch that matters. And no, not just for winters. Grainy linens, slub cottons, shiny summer leathers, canvases or fine sheer jerseys—menswear is firmly focused on innovative surfaces and finishes. Notable collections that featured some impressive textural innovation include ‘Residual’ by Sushant Abrol, for his label Countrymade.
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Gaurav Gupta: We often talk about colour or silhouette, but texture can elevate even the simplest pieces. It’s all about an interplay of the elements of design. Light layering, unexpected fabric pairings, matte and gloss contrasts are subtle details that can make a significant impact. We do endorse the structured look but often induce it with a sense of fluidity—whether in tailoring, drape, or fabrication—
that brings a fresh dimension to menswear, and how men approach fashion.
Shantnu & Nikhil: Textural contrast is one element of menswear that deserves more attention this season. Men often focus on cut and colour but overlook the power of texture. After all, texture tells a story before colour does.
Trousers & Twists
Once firmly focused on the fit, the fashion-oscope has shifted its concentration to construction. Wide-legged, skinny, draped or with twisted seams—designers are cutting the trousers with a twist. Men’s pants now come in varied shapes, with seams that shift and swerve.
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Tarun Tahiliani: I have been propelling the concept of drapery for men and they are responding quite well to it. We’ve designed wonderful draped dhotis and draped salwars that blend the elegance of the past with the functionality of contemporary menswear through zippers, fasteners and design details. The look is rooted in tradition but modern in aesthetic.
Tailoring
We are witnessing a resurgence of the suit. From Pharell Williams’ slick tailoring at Louis Vuitton to Ashish Soni’s suits at the India Men’s Week, take it from us: pop that shirt, steam that jacket and polish those shoes. While at it, check out our cover feature to see how slickly our cover man Vicky Kaushal pulls off a sharply tailored look.
Graphic Content
Prints, patterns and slogans—there’s little that’s plain about menswear now. Our pick of the most striking graphic statements include ‘Play More’ shirts at Sahil Aneja, ‘Dog Dad’ jumpers at Sabyasachi, camo graphics at Countrymade and typography work at Vivek Karunakaran and Samant Chauhan.
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Sahil Aneja: The key is to balance softer tones and print play with clean silhouettes. Bold graphics and prints can make even the simplest silhouettes stand out and, hence, it should be a part of every man’s wardrobe.
HypeBeast
The hypebeast subcultural movement is one that borders on high-end streetwear, the music scene, and a craving for the latest and most lusted-after choices. That, coupled with sportswear details, forms a big influence on menswear right now.
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Siddartha Tytler
I am hoping for an element of play to enter men’s wardrobes this season. It is evolving, with little twists here and there, and hopefully a lot of zippers!
Bling
Time to strike gold, guys. Or silver. From Sabyasachi to Gaurav Gupta, Manish Malhotra to Tarun Tahiliani—every prominent collection has busted out the bling for men. Expect sequin sheaths, rhinestones, glossy lamé and silk fabrics, and, of course, rings, chains, brooches, baubles and maharaja jewels to dominate our wardrobes, notably evening wear.
So that concludes our round-up of the trending terms and menswear directions. And here’s what we say—pay attention to all the buzzwords and ‘in’ terms. And get the cues to replenish your summer wardrobe. Oh, and what’s out? Of course, following trends.
ALL IMAGES COURTESY FDCI AND DESIGNERS
To read more stories from Esquire India's March 2025 issue, pick up a copy of the magazine from your nearest newspaper stand or bookstore. Or click here to subscribe to the magazine.