The Open case back is having a moment—and 2025 is proving it’s more than just a fleeting flex. At this year’s Watches & Wonders, the design trend was prominently showcased, hinting at a deeper shift in how collectors connect with their timepieces. No longer just precision tools, watches are becoming intimate, mechanical artworks. The case back? It’s your private gallery—letting you admire the movement in all its glory, just for you.
The Allure
Open case backs, often crafted from sapphire crystal, reveal the intricate mechanical movements within. These transparent windows offer a glimpse into the craftsmanship and complexity that define luxury horology. For many, this feature bridges the gap between functionality and artistry, allowing wearers to appreciate their watch on a personal level. Unlike the dial, which is visible while worn, the case back invites a ritual: the act of removing the watch to admire its inner workings.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra Tourbillon: With its ultra-thin profile, the open case back amplifies its technical marvels
Why It Resonates
The rise of open case backs aligns with broader cultural shifts in luxury consumption. Modern buyers seek authenticity and craftsmanship—qualities that open case backs epitomise. They also cater to a growing audience of enthusiasts who value the mechanical artistry over mere brand prestige. Moreover, this trend reflects an emotional connection. By exposing the “heartbeat” of a watch, brands create a tangible link between wearer and timepiece. It’s no longer just about telling time; it’s about experiencing time.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms 5010 steel: Inspired by the reprised 1953 original, the Fifty Fathoms in steel brings forth its three series-coupled barrels, a 5-day power reserve and silicon balance spring in full display thanks to a sapphire caseback
A Trend with Staying Power
As prices for high-end watches continue to climb, features like open case backs provide added value by offering a deeper appreciation for what lies beneath. This trend is not just aesthetic; it’s philosophical—celebrating transparency in an industry often shrouded in secrecy. Open case backs are more than a design choice; they are an invitation to engage with the soul of a watch. At a time when luxury is being redefined, this feature stands at the nexus of tradition and modernity, connecting wearers to their watches like never before.
To read more stories from Esquire India's April 2025 issue, pick up a copy of the magazine from your nearest newspaper stand or bookstore. Or click here to subscribe to the magazine.
