5 Eye-Catching Pieces From Watches & Wonders 2025
Timepieces that spoke the language of quiet luxury
Having attended Watches & Wonders for over two decades, I can confidently say that the magic never fails. I still remain mesmerized by the magical launches. Year after year, the fair transforms into a grand stage where Horological Artistry and pioneering innovation come alive, and 2025 was no exception. The sheer breadth of creativity on display this year was thrilling, captivating even for the most seasoned collectors and enthusiasts.
From fabulous mechanical movements to subtle refinements in form and finish, the diversity of craftsmanship was, simply mind-blowing. While nearly every timepiece caught my eye in one way or another, I am presenting a selection that spoke to a quieter—but no less impressive—side of watchmaking. Yes these timepieces for me are Quiet luxury. These are not watches overwhelmed by traditional complications; rather, they are marvels of engineering focused purely on the art of timekeeping. At most, they feature a discreet date aperture, but beneath their restrained dials lie some of the most advanced calibres released this year, pushing the boundaries of precision and mechanical integrity. Let us begin with five standout pieces that represent this perfect harmony of simplicity in form and complexity in function. I must share that every timepiece unveiled at Watches & Wonders 2025 had its distinct charm, each displaying a different facet of design, heritage, or innovation but these pieces for me are quiet luxury.
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First one that I would like to share is from the most coveted brand Cartier. Cartier Tank Louis Automatic, a symbol of timeless elegance, the Cartier Tank received a refined update at Watches and Wonders 2025 with the introduction of a larger Tank Louis Cartier. While retaining its iconic design hallmarks, this new model offered a more contemporary Wrist presence. It’s available in yellow gold and rose gold featuring Cartier’s automatic 1899 MC movement, bringing mechanical convenience to this classic silhouette. The case dimensions are 38.1 mm (lug to lug) x 27.75 mm (width) x 8.18 mm (thickness). The silvered flinqué dial showcases traditional Roman numerals, blue sword-shaped hands, and a discreet "Cartier" signature at VII. Water-resistant to 30 meters, it is presented on either a grey or brown semi-matte alligator leather strap, depending on the case material. The updated Tank Louis Cartier remains a sophisticated and enduring choice for those who appreciate quiet luxury.
Next one which I cannot stop talking about is an innovation from Grand Seiko.
Grand Seiko unveiled two exceptional timepieces that quietly shifted the design language of its contemporary line up. For the first time, the brand introduced a 37mm case diameter within its acclaimed Evolution 9 collection—a move that reflects a growing collector preference for compact proportions. It’s matched with a newly engineered fine-adjustment clasp, debuting on the titanium bracelet variant, ensuring an even more tailored and comfortable wearing experience. These thoughtful upgrades in fit and function mark an exciting evolution in the Evolution 9 lineage. Technically, these watches are nothing short of ground breaking. These timepieces are rightfully named as Grand Seiko UFA (Ultra Fine Accuracy). Both references—the SLGB001 in Platinum and the SLGB003 in High-Intensity Titanium—house the all-new Spring Drive Caliber 9RB2, representing Grand Seiko’s most accurate Spring Drive to date. It’s A Mechanical-Quartz Hybrid at Its Finest. Calibre 9RB2 achieves a phenomenal ±20 seconds per year—a level of precision virtually unheard of in purely mechanical watchmaking. While a mainspring mechanically powers the movement, it is regulated by a quartz oscillator, with no battery or stepping motor involved. The glide wheel, operating silently and smoothly, is part of what makes Spring Drive unique—a serene sweep of the seconds hand that reflects its hybrid mechanical-quartz nature. These masterpieces will be Available from June 2025.
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The Platinum version will be available in a Limited Edition of 80 pieces only.
Patek Phillippe’s Cubitus has been in the news since it’s release last year in October 2024. The Cubitus was launched in three colour variants in 45mm last year. This year at Watches and Wonders 2025, the maison released two new Cubitus variants in a smaller dial- 40mm offering a more wearable “casual chic” square design: Ref. 7128/1G-001 is a 40 mm White Gold case, Blue-grey sunburst dial, white gold bracelet and Ref. 7128/1R-001: 40 mm Rose Gold case, Brown sunburst dial, is in rose gold bracelet.
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Both variants have applied gold baton markers and hands with lume, alternating vertical satin-brushed and polished case finishes, and a matching bracelet with a secure, adjustable fold-over clasp. They are powered by the self-winding Caliber 26-330 S C with stop-seconds and date, visible through the sapphire case back. These releases expand the Cubitus collection with a more accessible size while maintaining Patek Philippe's high standards. To me these Cubitus in a smaller size are a statement piece which speaks silently.
Another timepiece that quietly says it all- introduced by Zenith who is celebrating its 160th anniversary in honour of its founder- Georges Favre-Jacot. With this new Zenith G.F.J, the brand revived the legendary Calibre 135, the most awarded observatory chronometer movement, which has been now subtly enhanced for improved reliability, precision, and performance with a COSC-certified accuracy (-2/+2 seconds/day). Its elegant 39mm platinum case features a stepped bezel and curved lugs, framing a distinctive 3-part blue dial with a "brick" guilloché pattern, lapis lazuli, mother-of-pearl, and a seconds subdial at the 6 o'clock position. This is an exclusive limited edition of 160 pieces for Zenith's 160th anniversary. One has to check this timepiece which has this beautiful electric blue dial.
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Another brand that is the definition of quiet luxury- Vacheron Constantin. While this brand is celebrating its 270 years and introduced quite a few innovations, the one piece that I would totally add to my watch wardrobe will be the Patrimony Self-Winding. Vacheron Constantin introduced a new iteration of its Patrimony Self-Winding model, further embodying understated elegance. This latest edition maintains the collection's signature clean lines and timeless aesthetic. The watch features a subtly redesigned case, now with a diameter of 39 mm, crafted from either 18K Pink Gold or 18K White Gold. The refined dial showcases a delicate sunburst finish, with its redesigned Maltese cross dial complemented by slender applied hour markers and dauphine hands. Powering this elegant timepiece is the in-house Calibre 2450 Q6, a self-winding movement, visible through the sapphire crystal case back. This new Patrimony Self-Winding reinforces Vacheron Constantin's commitment to classic watchmaking with contemporary wearability.
