Franck Muller CEO Nicholas Rudaz
CEO Nicholas Rudaz believes Franck Muller’s strength lies in its exclusivity—never producing tens of thousands of identical watches—making it highly prized by collectors
  1. Style
  2. Watches & Jewellery

Franck Muller CEO Nicholas Rudaz On Rarity, Craft And The Art Of Time

The bold standard in watchmaking

By Mitrajit Bhattacharya | LAST UPDATED: NOV 19, 2025

True connoisseurs have always favoured the road less travelled. Which is why Franck Muller—a brand known for its audacious complications and unapologetic individuality—chooses to go its own way. Instead of exhibiting at the bustling Watches and Wonders fair, it hosts an exclusive, by-appointment only showcase at its historic Geneva estate: the World Presentation of Haute Horlogerie (WPHH).

Tucked away in the elegant suburb of Genthod, the mansion—called Watchland—isn’t just where the brand’s story began; it’s where its spirit lives on. With classical terraced gardens, sweeping views of Lac Léman and Mont Blanc, and a poetic charm that feels more fairy tale than factory, the 1905 estate is both muse and workshop to Franck Muller’s master watchmakers. Every detail here honours heritage yet looks firmly to the future.

It was within these storied walls that I met CEO Nicholas Rudaz for the second year in a row. As my car pulled into the sun-dappled villa, Rudaz—who has been with the brand since 2007 and took over as CEO in 2021—was ready to dive into the latest chapter of the Franck Muller story, including the Crazy Hours Jisbar he wore on his wrist.

Excerpts from the conversation.

I’m often conflicted about whether Franck Muller is more renowned for being the Master of Complications or for its bold, flamboyant designs.

I’m surprised you have doubts about us being the Master of Complications. The DNA of the brand has always been about being bold, different and pushing the boundaries of mechanical watchmaking. Franck was the first to place the tourbillon on the front of a wristwatch. We engrave “Master of Complications” on every watch because it’s a philosophy Franck has held since the late ’80s and ’90s, when no one else was making complications like he was. This mindset still drives us daily at Watchland. And it’s still very much our focus with every presentation at WPHH, where we showcase our own mechanical complications. But we’re also very good in design and the use of vibrant colours. Franck Muller was, of course, the first to introduce colour with the Color Dreams collection.

What do you feel customers are seeking from Franck Muller as a brand?

I believe customers looking to buy a Franck Muller are after something unique and completely different from what’s available in the market today. We produce watches in small quantities for each model, even if they aren’t limited editions, and that’s our advantage. We will never produce tens of thousands of similar watches. That’s great for collectors, as it’s very unlikely that you will bump into a fellow collector wearing the same watch as yours.

Which four collections from your archive are you most proud of, and why?

If I could choose keeping the Indian market in mind, the first would be the Galet. The shape is unique with its smooth edges and pays homage to simplicity, calm and wellbeing. It has performed exceptionally well in India, although unfortunately, the design hasn't been appreciated as much elsewhere in the world.

The second one has to be one of the most defining symbols of brand Franck Muller, the Crazy Hours. The Crazy Hours movement is not only fascinating, it’s unique too. Franck developed this way back in 2003, when there was no social media and it was very difficult to explain to most people how the crazy complication like that works where the hours jump in crazy order while minutes follow the regular timekeeping display.

The third would have to be the Aeternitas Mega 4, the world’s most complicated watch ever made by Franck Muller back in 2012. With 36 complications and 1,483 components, it remains one of the world’s most intricate wristwatches—crowned by its signature chime: the Big Ben tune.

Lastly, how could I not mention the complicated tourbillons by Franck Muller? The Vanguard Triple Axis Tourbillon is a fitting reminder of why we are hailed as the Master of Complications.

From left to right: the Vanguard Crazy Hours Jisbar, the Aeternitas Mega 4 and the Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon Rainbow

You’ve introduced a range of novelties this year—what are some of the standout pieces for you?

At Franck Muller, we never decide how many pieces are for men or women—we simply follow what inspires us in the moment. This year, it was the feminine.

If I have to pick, the first has to be the Cintrée Curvex Cut Flower. As you can see, it transforms the delicate language of petals into a high jewellery timepiece where fine watchmaking and gem-setting artistry coincide. Then there’s the Curvex CX Grand Central Tourbillon Rainbow. By placing the tourbillon at the centre of the dial, we reimagined the movement so that the hour and minute hands orbit it, and the colourful gem-set bezel enhances the visual drama.

The Round Triple Mystery defies convention by replacing hands with rotating discs for hours, minutes and seconds—seamlessly integrated. Housed in rose gold and set with diamonds, it’s as much a technical feat as it is visually captivating.

And for the men, the Crazy Hours Jisbar is an exceptional collaboration with French pop-street artist Jisbar, combining the playful spirit of Crazy Hours with his vibrant, artistic energy.

Wrapping up, it’s hard to ignore Franck Muller’s rising popularity in India—thanks in no small part to your association with Ranveer Singh. How is the market shaping up for the brand here?

We’ve been very excited about Franck Muller’s development in India—thanks to Ranveer Singh, who has done a fantastic job promoting the brand in your country.

He visited Watchland about six years ago, and I still remember him sharing a personal story: as a child, he had promised his mother he would one day buy her a Franck Muller watch. Needless to say, he’s fulfilled that promise many times over.

To read more stories from Esquire India's April 2025 issue, pick up a copy of the magazine from your nearest newspaper stand or bookstore. Or click here to subscribe to the magazine.

Next Story