The Top Boss Doesn’t Want You To Overthink Your Order

First things first: Top Banana is American slang for the most important person in a group, the star. At this newly opened neighbourhood bar dished out by Bright Hospitality that also owns Ikk Panjab, AM PM and OMO, the guest gets that privilege. No need to decipher a concept or wrack their head to understand the workings of the menu.

All the overthinking has already happened backstage, like bar head Sushil Pant puts it: “The guest is left out of it. We don’t want our patrons to dissect the drink unnecessarily. The curious ones will strike up a conversation,” says Pant, who built the menu with the team of Countertop India led by Pankaj Balachandran.

Opened in a two-storeyed space above Ikk Panjab in GK 2 market’s vibrant cluster, Top Banana joins the robust company of buzzing coffee shops like Libertico and Pour Over, OG bar mecca Sidecar by Yangdup Lama’s Sidecar, south Indian favourite Carnatic Café and recently launched Barbet & Pals.

The matte greyness of the space projects a controlled dimness that regulates any overdriven senses. The vinyl needle drops a sketchy note of the Blues, creating an otherworldly sound that adds to the ambiance.

A mural of line-drawn illustrations independent rotating panels draws attention. Doodles and quirky lines make for obvious conversation starters. The bar matches the fluidity and breaks it with a bold grey-green brick front façade. The seats are comfortable - take a 40-year-old’s back for it - and made for lingering.

The first drink in the menu, Salt Before Senses (RS 795), says a lot. Sweet drinks are passe. Savoury drinks -- balanced by sweetness of well-paired ingredients -- are redefining the cocktail game. The strong base of tequila gets the softness of lychee and the fragrant Sakura salt. The dash of soda bubbles a crispness.

Those who shied away from cocktails for their sweet pushover are in good luck. Tequilla-forward Fat Chance (RS 795) is bacon washed and paired with fruity plums. Sweetened by orgeat, an almond syrup, a hoisin sauce usually glazes your meats in Chinese cuisine, steps in with umami.  This one takes a 36-48 hour-long journey to your glass.

Shadow Play, a briny, dirty martini is a riot of gin and vodka. Classic olives are in tart company of pickled onion and heaty Jalapenos. French aperitif Lillet Blanc sweetens the palate.

Chef Tarannum Sehgal has designed a Euro-Japanese menu that reflects her culinary training in the South of France and staging at Michelin-starred kitchen in the Occitanie region. The former ad-executive frames her dishes visually.

The Silver Fish, comes looking like a fish basket. The batter fried sticks stand in a pool of cashew curry pesto paste. The Artichoke Ice Riot (Rs 420) is a similar design bearing a scoop of goat cheese ice cream with artichokes nuggets drizzled in a chilli gremolata. All portions are trimmed as shareable plates. What could be called an oversight, are crunchy and fried, making us crave for lighter options.

We find solace in the Oeuf Mimosa (RS 350) or pickled beet eggs, salmon roe and a touch of dashi. A more layered dish, it is easy to see it as a misfit for many. The pan-seared Bacon wrapped onigiri encases a delightful smokiness in the rice balls.
The language again picks up crunch in Kimchi Corn Poppers (RS 500) that has variation of charred corn, sweet corn and cob with Gochujang and kimchi, and the Jackfruit Kiev Burst as a massive veggie chop stuffed with curry leaf pesto and ghee roast. The Satay PB&J Pff (Rs 350) smartly sets sail beignets down a creamy curry sauce and drizzled with a raspberry jam.

One last drink is a reorder. Burn After Reading has notes of sesame, almond and smoke steeped in whiskey, finished with sweet vermouth and bitters. We carry this to the upper level, in the open al fresco, that faces a silk cotton tree. The crimson flames of the nectar flowers stand tall like the OG ‘top banana’.

Address: Third and Fourth Floor, M-5, M Block Market, Block M, Greater Kailash II, Greater Kailash, New Delhi, Delhi 110048, Delhi, 110048 
Timing: Tuesday to Sunday; 6 PM - 1 AM (closed on Mondays) 
Price for Two: INR 2000/- ++ 
Reservations: +91 89290 96135