Hot Takes From Day 1 Of Watches And Wonders 2026

So, how are the Pepsi wait listers doing? Now that we know that even that Coke wasn’t announced, it makes sense that a good chunk of Rolex fans are unhappy. But here’s a silver lining to lift your spirits: the Batman, too, was discontinued for a year then they brought it back with an updated movement. The Pepsi itself was discontinued for a while before it made a return, as we did a deep dive here:

So in all probability, the Pepsi watch will make a return when Rolex figures out what to do with the red pigment. But there’s so much more going on at the (maybe underwhelming?) Watches and Wonders this year. So here are a few of my hot takes from Day 1, in case all the Pepsi drama is blocking you out on the fun. 

A. Lange & Söhne Smoked Everyone With That Matrix-like Watch

I’ll admit here that I have a soft spot for ALS, but the German watchmaker actually put their Lumen technology to the best use possible with the glow-in-the-dark Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. It’s an old concept actually; the first time Lange used it was on the 2010 Zeitwerk Luminous. But that being said, the design on this 41.9mm is nothing short of brilliant, that too on a watch with a stop seconds tourbillon and an instantaneous perpetual calendar with a peripheral month ring. Someone online named this the Matrix watch, and I couldn’t agree more.

The Yachtmaster II Hate Is Unnecessary

Listen, I bet if Rolex had made a Submariner with a platinum bezel insert, rhodium dial, and electric blue seconds hand, half of you would have lost your minds and named it after whatever cartoon/comic book character it remotely resembled. It’s not like most Rolex wearers even dive that often, either (I will completely agree with the tool watch complaints from people who actually need a tool watch). But still, Rolex addressed the biggest complaints about the awkward design of the YMII. 

The countdown scale has moved from the dial centre to the flange, operated via pushers either side of the crown. The bezel is a new bi-directional 60-minute Cerachrom unit. Submariner-style indices complete the picture. At 44mm wide and 13.9mm thick, it's still a large watch, but it looks much more cohesive now. If anything, it looks like the most preppiest watches the crown has come up with.

Speaking Of Rolex…

It's better to hold your horses before you cry about them playing it safe. I don’t want to make the entire article about Rolex, so I’ll keep it short here, but historically speaking, Rolex goes through a large-scale redesign and upgrade spree every 30-ish years (so it has happened thrice in its 100-year history). In between, it’s mostly minor announcements. The last time they had an overhaul like this was in the 2015-2020 window. So, irrespective of it being their centenary, if you were expecting major announcements from them, you were only setting yourself up for disappointment.

The Cartier Roadster Is Back!

The Roadster is really not that popular, and its discontinuation in 2012 increased its popularity only so much. So Cartier bringing this back is interesting to say the least. The flowing lugs are still there, as are the concentric rings on the chapter ring, the chemin de fer track, the incredibly cool crystal and the Roman numerals with the hidden signature at VII. What’s changed: the four recessed lug screws have migrated to the bezel in a rivet format (not my favourite, but maybe there are people who’ll like that), the crown is more grounded than the original (which I like), and the bracelet has been reworked with shorter, more ergonomic links, pairing polished centre links against brushed outers. 

IWC’s First Space Watch Could Easily Be A Limited Edition

This might be the most technically serious release in the bunch. The Pilot's Watch Venturer Vertical Drive (CHF 24,000) is built with VAST, the company working on next-gen commercial space stations, and it’s designed specifically for use beyond Earth. There’s no crown at all. Instead, you get a rocker switch on the left to toggle functions, while a rotating Ceratanium bezel handles winding, time-setting, and GMT adjustment, all with astronauts in gloves in mind. And somehow, despite all that effort and engineering, it isn’t limited, which is a surprise. A pleasant one at that.

We Need To Talk More About Parmigiani Fleurier

The Tonda PF Chronographe Mysterieux is just ridiculous in the best way. A five-hand chronograph that refuses to be like any other watch we’ve ever seen. No clutter, no aggressive subdials screaming for attention. Just a clean, almost deceptive dial with five watch hands. This is the kind of watchmaking you guys keep claiming you want when you talk about wait listers then ignore when it actually shows up.