Breitling CEO Georges Kern On Choosing The Right Luxury Watch, And Bridging The Past And Present

For decades, luxury Swiss watchmaker Breitling has carved a niche for itself for delivering precision chronographs, aviation heritage and robust, sporty designs for its watches.

But what many might not remember is that in the 1950s, Breitling launched two divers’ watches. In those years, the demand for divers’ watches was increasing thanks to their essential role in ocean exploration and aquatic sports. Following this trend, Breitling launched two pioneering diving watches in 1957: a time-only model (Ref. 1004) and a chronograph (Ref. 807; this was the world’s first dedicated dive chronograph), both named SuperOcean. The spear-and-arrow design, rotating bezels and sleek design made the original SuperOcean an instant hit.

Fast forward to 2025, Breitling has introduced a more contemporary version of the series. The updated Superocean Heritage series is sharper, sleeker and features a more refreshing design, including the size assortment and the addition of the new B31 manufacture movement. It is fair to call it the best version of a modern-retro sea watch.

Breitling CEO Georges Kern says with the new Superocean Heritage collection, the watchmaker has stayed true to the original’s mid-century codes. “With this new collection, that philosophy still drives the design,” he says in an emailed interview.

Apart from expanding more on how and why diver watches remain relevant even today, Kern explains more about the importance of the Indian market for the brand, its recent acquisitions and his advice to first-time luxury watch buyers. Edited excerpts from an exclusive interview.

What does the new Superocean Heritage collection add to Breitling's existing timepieces?

The new Superocean Heritage collection is all about refinement. Every detail has been carefully considered, from an optimized size assortment to the introduction of our new B31 manufacture movement but the spirit of the collection remains unchanged. The Superocean Heritage is all about style at sea.

How does this new collection pay homage to the original Superocean timepieces?

When Breitling first launched the SuperOcean in 1957, it took a different tack from other dive watches of the era. The Ref. 1004 (a sleek time-only piece) and Ref. 807 (the world’s first dedicated dive chronograph) were not just about undersea exploration– they were about looking good doing it.

With the new Superocean Heritage collection we stayed true to the original’s mid-century codes: the spear-and-arrow hands, the pointed indexes, the high-luster rotating bezel (originally anodized aluminum, now ceramic), and the sleek proportions that made it a favorite among stylish adventurers of the 1950s. With this new collection, that philosophy still drives the design. We’ve enhanced symmetry and proportion with tone-on-tone subdials and a subtle date aperture at six o’clock while maintaining crucial legibility that makes the watch essential for divers. It’s a timepiece with the soul of the past, engineered for the present.

As watch history suggests, the 1950s saw a surge in demand for divers' watches. How has this category evolved since then?

The surge in demand during the 1960s was closely tied to the rise of leisure diving—dive watches began as a response to a growing lifestyle trend. What started as a functional tool quickly evolved. Over the years, dive watches became more technical, built to withstand greater depths and harsher environments. But perhaps the most significant evolution came later, when the category transitioned into the lifestyle space.

Today, dive watches are no longer limited to underwater use—they’ve become everyday companions. Their robust construction and high-water resistance make them perfectly suited for a modern lifestyle that moves from the office to the gym to the pool. The demand absolutely persists, not just because of their utility, but because they carry a sense of adventure and reliability that resonates with today’s watch wearers. At Breitling, we've embraced this evolution, designing dive watches that honor their origins while adapting to how people actually live and wear them today.

What is your view on regular watch wearers donning a divers' watch? Can you explain why such timepieces remain attractive for people who never actually dive?

I can only speak for our dive watches, which are, of course, designed to meet the demands of diving—but just as importantly, they look great.  What makes them so popular is they fit pretty much everywhere. This makes them an ideal choice for someone looking for a single, do-it-all timepiece, but also for collectors who want a reliable option that can handle anything.

With a sportier option from the Superocean to the more stylish option with the recently relaunched Superocean Heritage, all ground is covered from utilitarian to style. People also gravitate towards unique materials like ceramic (featured in our Superocean Heritage collection) and bronze (used in the Superocean collection) as well as the oversized hands and indexes which were once designed to keep you alive underwater. This makes our dive watches—with their legible layout and robust architecture an excellent choice from formal occasions to casual outings.

India has become the next big thing for Swiss luxury watchmakers. Where does Breitling fit in the scheme of things and how does it plan to stand out in the Indian market?

We see great potential in the market and are keen on further expanding our brand in India. Breitling has been well established in the Indian market for many years and is growing above industry standards. We currently have five boutiques and 27 multi-brand locations and have a solid expansion strategy for our boutiques. We plan to open 10 boutiques and be present in another 30 multi-brand stores over 18 months to make the brand accessible across a broader geographic area.

In recent years, Breitling has acquired two watch brands in Gallet and Universal Genève. Can you take us through Breitling's vision for these historic names?

Our strategy with the acquisitions of Universal Genève and Gallet is to build a complementary portfolio of three distinct brands, each with its own identity, target audience, and market positioning. This allows us to cover a broader spectrum of the luxury watch market without diluting the essence of any individual brand.

We’ve had a clear vision for Breitling’s development which has evolved significantly over the past years, moving into a higher price segment with increasing pricing power. However, we also recognized that a brand can’t stretch indefinitely. These acquisitions allow us to expand our reach both upward and downward in the market.

Universal Genève, acquired in 2023, helps us extend our influence in high-end luxury. Gallet, on the other hand, enables us to enter the entry-level luxury segment—an area many Swiss watch brands including Breitling have exited in recent years.

What would be your advice to any first-time buyers who are diving into the world of luxury watches?

My advice would be to take your time to explore and understand what resonates with you personally. A luxury timepiece is more than just a tool to tell time; it is a statement of your style, values, and often a symbol of personal milestones. Consider the heritage of the brand, the craftsmanship behind the watch, and how it fits into your lifestyle.