Hermès Is Galloping Through Time

In the world of Hermès, time isn't just measured in minutes and hours—it’s crafted, narrated and occasionally winked at. And under Philippe Delhotal’s direction, every tick is a tribute to curiosity, artistry and a touch of mischief.

At this year’s Watches & Wonders in Geneva, Hermès unveiled its show-stealer: the Arceau Rocabar de Rire—affectionately dubbed the “horsey watch.” A riot of horsehair marquetry, delicate engraving and miniature painting, the piece channels the cheeky spirit of Dimitri Rybaltchenko’s Rocabar de Rire silk scarf. There’s even an on-demand animation feature, bringing to life a horse sticking out its tongue. Playful? Yes. Meticulously made? Even more so. And as always with Hermès, exclusivity is part of the charm—this is a collector’s piece for those who find poetry in precision.

Delhotal, the creative director of Hermès Horloger, orchestrates this vision with finesse—folding in the maison’s equestrian heritage, the storytelling magic of its scarves and a defiantly offbeat approach to watchmaking. Here, he takes us into the world of animated dials, unspoken rules and how Hermès insists on keeping time... its own way. Excerpts from the interview.

Tell us about Hermès’ equestrian heritage and why it’s such an important house code. The brand also has a distinct relationship with time, one that feels more intuitive and playful. What makes this perspective so different and why is it so integral to Hermès?

The equestrian heritage of Hermès is also a matter of know-how. When we began, we were making saddles and harnesses of great quality—designed to suit the horse’s morphology. We started working with very light harnesses, prioritising not just the comfort of the horse but also aesthetics. Taking the time to do things well has always been essential to our process, and that’s why the concept of time at Hermès may be slightly different from that of other brands. We've carried this same philosophy into our watchmaking as well.

Can you give us an example of how that playful philosophy of time shows up in the design of your watches or creative process?

We love to play, that’s true. We are playful not just with our objects but also in the designs and the drawings of our silk scarves. Hermès silk scarves have funny stories in them. That’s why we use the designs of these scarves on our watches as well, because it’s all part of our story to have the joyfulness, playfulness, the whimsy and fantasy that we bring to life through our objects and our clients like that very much.

The Arceau has become a canvas for the House to express creativity. Tell us about this year’s exploration through the Rocabar?

The use of the scarf for the watch felt quite logical. We often showcase scarves that highlight our know- how, and the Arceau, in particular, lends itself well to equestrian designs—it’s a very nice story. I selected the scarf and told the designer I really liked its drawing and wanted to use it for the watch. The idea was to take it even further, so I could finally animate the tongue that was sticking out of the horse’s mouth. We ended up creating a mechanical animation for the watch, which is also adorned with horsehair marquetry, engraving and miniature painting.

You are someone with a rich heritage across various watch brands. How do you find Hermès to be different compared to traditional Swiss watch houses?

It’s very different. I spent a large part of my career in other watchmaking houses, and coming to Hermès felt like entering a universe—a whole world that’s distinct, as Hermès has 16 different métiers. There is a creative richness and variety, which naturally influences you and your creations.

I understand that most Hermès watches are gender neutral, but if you had to say whether a particular watch leans more towards men or women, where would you place the Rocabar?

At Hermès, we don’t categorise watches by gender. They’re meant for anyone—there are no rules really. It’s all about what resonates with the individual.

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