Rikki Kher: I’d love To Dress Thierry Henry And Ian Wright

Founded in 2013 by Rikki Kher, KARDO began with a single sewing machine in a Shahpur Jat workshop, built on a simple observation: that there was a gap in the Indian market for well-crafted, modern menswear made using our textiles and our techniques, yet with a refined, international feel. Over the last decade, Rikki has quietly built a label that now sits in some of the world’s best menswear stores, from Mr. Porter and END. Clothing to Beams in Tokyo. Yet every piece continues to be made start-to-finish by one artisan in their Noida workshop.

The label’s newest chapter, its first flagship store set to open next month in Delhi’s Lodhi Colony. Hand-finished walls, salvaged government furniture, Kota stone floors, a reflection of the same honesty and materiality that defines the clothes.

Perfect time to chat with the designer on all things style & substance, and that what's we did.

Edited excerpts below:

How do you conceptualise a collection?

We look inside ourselves and ask questions on what we are feeling, including the political climate, the state of the world, and we use our clothes to communicate these ideas and thoughts. But the collection always starts with the textile crafts and the silhouettes follow.

Let's talk about your personal style. Does it in any way inform the pieces that you create?

Absolutely. I like the collection to be functional and wearable. Comfort is essential. We can’t make pieces that are simply statement pieces. I am fascinated by vintage workwear and military pieces not necessarily for their style, but their functionality. Why were they made in a certain way, what are the reasons for a pocket, a seam or a pleat.

You've more often than not honoured traditional weaving, dyeing and printing techniques in India for your collections, using fabrics such as Natural Dyed Handloom, Block Printing, IKAT, Natural Indigo Denim, Shibori and Chikankari embroidery. Which is your favourite textile and technique to explore?

It’s like asking who is your favourite child!! I am very interested in natural dyeing, especially Indigo as a process and the ancient functionality of Indigo, such as its inherent medicinal properties. Natural dyeing is fascinating.

KARDO collections often nod in favour of retro styles evoking a bit of the nineties and other decades.

As we were speaking about earlier, I love vintage utility clothing, from traditional workwear to military. It’s not for the nostalgia but for the technique. But yes, I was a kid who grew up in the 70s, 80s and 90s in London and New York so my influence is Rude Boys, New Romantics, Hip Hop and of course British tailoring and Katherine Hamnett!

How do you interpret India Modern?

A paradox of extreme innovation and growth alongside a deep historical culture that cannot be changed. It’s beautiful! The KARDO man is curious about the world, proud of his roots, but not defined by them and excited by life.

How's been the process of supporting and collaborating with handloom weaving communities throughout India?

An incredibly humbling experience. I have learned an immense amount about India, artisanal textiles, the land, our climate, the interconnection between the land and our economic situation, the lives in rural India and what traditions are worth preserving.

What's the guiding philosophy behind KARDO's specialised ‘ONExONE’ production?

When I started the brand, I wanted to work against fast fashion, make meaningful clothes and showcase the vast skills of the people involved in making. That meant we had to do things slowly and ensure the team was invested in each piece. The traditional way of making clothes was for a tailor to make the piece from start to finish. His or her soul is in the garment, their energy and effort. That energy should translate to the wearer. Hence, we have to ensure that the tailor is happy, the environment they work in is good, their salary is commensurate with their experience and give them an opportunity to grow. So, when you wear the clothes, you also feel the positive hands that have touched your garment. It may sound a bit out-there, but for me that’s important. We need to know that the making of clothes involved humans in all the moving parts, from fabrics to finishing the garment. We have lost that feeling because of fast fashion and the throw-away culture.

The wash tag on any KARDO garment features the name of the craftsperson who made it from start to finish. How crucial is it to give credit to the artisans?

It’s the be all and end all of what we do. So it’s imperative. It’s our raison d'être.

Do you see a new sense of pride among Indian men in investing in India Proud labels?

Yes, now we do see it. When we started, our collection didn’t resonate as the trend was to wear clothing from abroad (Ralph Lauren polos, loafers and “luxury” brands), but slowly, as we built a reputation abroad and Indian men travelled more, they began to feel more connected with what we did. I recently did a talk in NY at a store about the journey of KARDO, the ups and downs, the slow build and the meaning behind our process. The majority of the audience came up to me after and mentioned that KARDO made them proud of being Indian, connecting them to their roots. That was a sincerely humbling moment and a vindication of what we are doing.

Let's talk about KARDO AUTUMN/WINTER 25.

We were looking at the state of the world, the rise of authoritative leaders and growing aggression around the world with the war in Ukraine and then the devastation of Gaza. “Prem Prasar” was our message that the world is better when we work in community, kindness and compassion. The lotus is a symbol of this and a continuation of our belief that without community, connection and togetherness we can’t survive – something that is the pillar of KARDO.

Besides fashion, what are your other passions?

I have two daughters, one 27 and one five, so they both keep me busy in completely different ways. My wife, Olivia, is a passion project I am not willing to give up! I train, run, read a lot and play music, especially Jazz, Soul and Hip Hop pre-2000.

Is there a dream muse or muses you'd like to dress who you think resonates with the KARDO aesthetic?

We’ve dressed a lot of interesting people already, including Kunal Merchant of Indo-Warehouse, Tech Panda and Kenzani, artist Bharti Kher. Our pieces have reached the wardrobes of Drake, LeBron James, Ed Sheeran, Noel Gallagher, Charles Leclerc, Andre Power, Tan France, Bruce Pask, and others. We’ve also been featured on screen, recently in Black Rabbit and soon in a new series with Woody Harrelson wearing KARDO.

In an ideal world I’d love to dress Thierry Henry and Ian Wright from Arsenal, two of my footballing heroes. I‘d love to dress Bjork (everything about her is amazing) and the Indian Cricket Team – both men’s and women’s! But sincerely, we want KARDO to be something that anyone feels they can wear, to give them ‘cool’, a sense of Indian pride or simply a piece of clothing that functions well, is beautifully made and speaks to them honestly.