Designer Arjun Khanna On His New Collection & A Lifelong Penchant For All Things Vintage

The very mention of Arjun Khanna’s name brings to mind a sense of timelessness, a degree of nostalgia and visuals evoking old school elegance. Be it an array of antique cameras and other cultural memorabilia he’s collected over the years or his remarkably shot campaigns which always whisper stories of sartorial finesse informed by his exploratory voyages into myriad cultures. Season after season, the designer has drawn inspiration from different cultures transcending geographical boundaries. And in his latest offering, he explores Japanese savoir-faire and symbolism.   

“I’ve always loved and been fascinated with Japanese culture, art and their precision and honour in everything they do! From samurai warriors to soft kimonos and then the jean or denim culture!” he says.   

Rooted in the philosophy of balance, ‘Spirit and Strength’ is a menswear collection inspired by the timeless Japanese symbols of the Tiger (Tora) and Dragon (Ryū) — a pairing that reflects cosmic balance. The tiger represents courage, raw instinct, and protection — a force grounded in the earth. The dragon embodies wisdom, calm and mastery over water, a symbol of inner control and transcendence.  “This collection is only a start to many - that’s always been my philosophy in design I don’t create and leave it at one collection. The genesis and core inspiration continues and will overlap into many other collections and one-off pieces I will create,” he adds.   

Instinctively, the maverick designs from his heart and what he’d love to wear. “To say India is rich in craft and artisanal value is a cliche, it’s how one adapts and uses them to create newness in design,” he avers. He personally loves the art of zardozi silai and he’s made the technique special with his whimsical touch. “The vintage aesthetic has always been part of the AK signature, and I’m thrilled to blend these worlds of Japanese symbolism, fine tailoring, and timeless style,” he shares.

You've always been into biking & restoration of vintage bikes. How does your penchant for the bygone era aesthetic sublimate your mood board?  

Everything vintage and retro has always intrigued me! I enjoy their mystical value and creating stories with them which weren't part of it - from bikes to cameras to typewriters and military costumes. Biking became an integral part of my design as it's the most rebellious and manly form of expression – historically, the biker came from a gang. Especially the sense of brotherhood among bikers resonates with me on a personal level. But most of all I fell in love with the unique design and restoration process which then obviously trickled into my work as a designer.

The brand Arjun Khanna has evolved over the years - how has the process of adapting to the new era been?

Yes, my label truly has stood the test of time, and I believe a brand needs to stay relevant which is why we’re still here and AK is relevant. Many times, I would hear or be told I was ‘too ahead of the time’! Ironically, something has caught up. However, the evolution of the AK label, I feel, has matured into a timeless one. Classic with naughty twists and always has soul.

A lot of designers are familiarising themselves with AI tools. Have you given it a shot yet?

AI is certainly a revolutionary concept that’s come into the game and whilst I have dabbled in it, I have not yet fully delved into it or embraced it in my design work. But as an entrepreneur we are always exploring how we can leverage new tools and tech innovations to optimise productivity and business efficiency.

How have you seen your menswear clients evolve over the years?

Men have certainly become more daring in their sartorial choices. Until recently, wives and girlfriends would often choose their partner’s outfits, but I have witnessed a shift in men being more confident and developing their own identities when it comes to dressing. Men are now far more willing to experiment and express individuality rather than follow the herd.  

I don’t design with a particular demographic in mind; my customers span all age groups. I would say, younger generations wear garments in a different context and adopt pieces to suit their personal style.

Were you always drawn towards heritage techniques and textiles? Which is your favourite textile and technique to explore and why?

It will come as no surprise that denim is my favourite material, I have collected hundreds of pairs of vintage jeans from across the world over the last decades. It’s the most versatile and usable fabric that’s stood the test of time. In fact, I am working on a new, exciting project completely dedicated to denim, which will be launching later this year - watch this space. And there is a plethora of antique textiles like the Jamewar shawls. I love and collect those too. Similarly, when it comes to techniques. Whether it’s Zardozi silai, Japanese boro and Sashiko or other more technical aspects of fine tailoring like the perfect cut, these are things I obsess over until I am confident about how to explore and honour their rich heritage in my signature way.

Let's talk about your personal style. You’ve always been a thoughtful dresser - from selvedge denims to leather pieces. Does it in any way inform the pieces that you create?

I’m most comfortable in my skin and I feel my way of dressing has become a second skin - it always has to be effortless and most of all I need to feel the part or character I’m in the mood to play that moment!

Nostalgia is having a moment in fashion currently with creative directors revisiting their old campaigns and family closets. You’ve cast some of your old favourite models which have appeared in your previous campaigns.

I am nostalgia personified! For me, this is not a trend but a philosophy or lifestyle. Both my home and boutique are filled with antiques, collectibles and vintage finds I have scoured during my travels. Every piece has meaning, a memory attached.

How do you interpret India Modern? Who's the Arjun Khanna man?

India Modern is just another catchy phrase being thrown around. I think it’s time we embraced our incredible heritage of craftsmanship and are able to take that to the world in a manner that is contemporary. The AK man – is usually in all of us, the one who is confident and keen to express their personality through impeccable tailoring and design.

Do you see a new sense of pride among Indian men in investing in India Proud labels?

Yes, absolutely. Until recently, wearing international brands was all the rage, perhaps creating a sense of belonging. But I have seen a shift towards taking pride in a ‘Made in India’ product. Consumers have rediscovered their appreciation for artisanal skills from block prints to hand embroidery and locally sourced materials. South Asian fashion is making great strides on a global scale which in turn has influenced the domestic landscape and how we perceive the beauty we have at home. I think sustainability and empowering communities of artisans is another important aspect we cannot ignore.

Besides fashion, what are your other passions?

Well, if I don’t design or experiment with textiles and surface manipulation, I am obsessed with bikes and photography. Similar to my bike and denim collection, I have amassed a sizable collection of vintage cameras and for almost two decades I have shot all my own brand campaigns. These days I work exclusively with Leica cameras. For work purposes I shoot on digital, but my real passion is black-and-white analogue photography, especially on the streets during my extensive travels… people, landscapes, architecture, style… beauty is in the eye of the beholder and can be found anywhere. I would often roam the city, camera in hand and capture everyday life happening around me.

Is there a dream muse who you think resonates with the AK aesthetic? Anyone from cinema, arts or sports?

I am honoured and privileged to have dressed the ‘Who’s Who’ over the last 35 years. One of the more unique opportunities was the chance to work with the BCCI to design all the formal kit for the men’s senior Indian National Cricket Team ahead of their World Cup win in 2011. Should the opportunity arise again, I would immediately say yes. Tom Hardy is another gent I think it would be incredible to work with and someone who instantly fits the signature AK aesthetic.