3 Fits With Suvir Saran

SUVIR SARAN HAS SPENT DECADES UNSPOOLING the threads of Indian cuisine. Not to simplify it for the West when he lived in the US, but to remind the world of its intimacy and inherent power. At Dévi, his pioneering New York restaurant that earned a Michelin star—the first ever for any Indian restaurant in the US—he brought the very soul of Indian home kitchens to fine dining without losing its poetry or punch.

In the years following his return to India, Saran has only doubled down. Now the creative force behind the beloved kitchens of Neuma (Mumbai), Jolene (Goa), Te Amo (Gurgaon) and Murphies (Pune), he operates in that rare space between iconoclast and archivist—while fearlessly rewriting the rules.

Was there a first moment that you fell in love with clothing and menswear?

Truth be told, there were two moments. One was watching my father get dressed for work when I was a boy. His shirts were always crisp, his shoes were always polished and he carried himself with a quiet elegance. That grace left an imprint on me. I realised early on that clothing isn’t just fabric—it’s intention, it’s about presence. And I also saw this in my mom. She was so gorgeous in an effortless way.

She was greying in her 20s, she was mostly white in her 30s and she was the handsomest woman I’d ever seen. Yes, she was beautiful, but also smart and brave. In her, I saw what handsomeness is. And you know, in the old days, a woman who was beautiful was a kept woman. A woman who was handsome was a woman with personality, gravitas, pizzazz, style and possessed a sense of self.

You’ve made some compelling style statements— what inspires your edgy approach to fashion?

I don’t think I’m all that edgy. I think of it as honest, as connected to the moment in time we live in. I make statements for those that can’t make a statement. I often go against my design sensibilities to wear, to flash, to show those edgy fashion statements that young men and women will get bullied to do. So, I have the chutzpah to do it. My style is an extension of my soul, dramatic, layered, classic, but never shy of surprise. And I think a little irreverence never hurt anyone, so I go with that.

Where do you usually shop? Any favourite brands?

Of course a lot of them are tailored, but a majority of the designs I wear are by young and budding fashion designers, labels that are homegrown. When I lived in New York, I was wearing Gucci and Prada and all the labels of the West. And I was often the chicest in a room. Coming back to India, I still have them with me, but I’ve left them in the cupboard. I wear them when I go overseas.

In India, today, I’m wearing homegrown bands, which are some of my favourite. It would be a lie if I said Rohit Bal’s designs aren’t my favourite. Then there’s Tasva by Tarun Tahiliani for very affordable Indian wear, Heena Kochhar, Ujjawal Dubey and his label Antar-Agni. My all-time favourite is Suket Dhir. He doesn’t make too much noise, but his tailoring, design and cuts are just incredible. All these labels are proud to be Indian. They give me all the drama layers and class and sophistication and edge that I need.

How’s your personal style evolved over the years?

Over the years, I think I've become more unafraid. I’ve stopped dressing to please others—I now please myself. Earlier, I used to hide behind what was appropriate. Now I wear who I am. Flaws, style, drama, all of it.

A look from the ’80s or ’90s you’d like to bring back?

I think it’s coming back already and I’m very excited. I love elephant pants and harem pants.

Is there anything that you would never wear?

I find skinny jeans a little skinny on fashion, but they do become fashion statements when you wear them with panache and so I think there’s almost nothing that I won’t wear.

What piece of fashion are you on the hunt for?

I’m always looking for the perfect pair of black leather gloves: soft as butter, tailored to my own fingers, lined in a way that feels like luxury even on the coldest days. But when you wear them, you feel you could be coming out from the set of Eyes Wide Shut or 50 Shades of Grey.

If you had to wear just one outfit for the rest of your life, what would it consist of?

A beautifully cut black achkan with white churidars, a natural indigo-dyed pocket square—handcrafted— and stunning mojaris. It’s timeless, it’s Indian, it’s Jawaharlal Nehru, it’s Suvir Saran, and it’s all the people in between and beyond.

What’s one thing from your closet that you will never throw out?

I have a scarf that my mother knitted me decades ago. And in my head, it still smells faintly of her and reminds me of all that matters and all that’s timeless.

What’s currently happening for you on the professional front?

I’ve written a memoir called Tell My Mother I Like Boys. It comes out this December. It’s my most personal work yet. And then there’s my restaurants, my writing columns, my podcast, my mentoring incredible young talent across India.

What is it about food and cooking that you love the most?

That it can heal and hurt, comfort and provoke—all in one bite. And food connects people to memory, to love, to themselves... that part about it never stops fascinating me.

Are there any specific personal or professional goals that you have this year?

I want to learn to be kinder to myself, to make more art, not just noise. And I want to keep elevating the voices of others around me and hopefully be the voice of the voiceless, the eyes of those who can’t see, the feeling of those who can’t protect and feel for themselves. And I want to be there for others that don’t have what I have.

What are the things that you enjoy doing during your downtime?

Singing, writing, being alone. I’m a loner. My greatest time is spent alone with myself. Home to me is wherever I house my body for an hour, 10 days or months. So, it can be a hotel, a train, a plane. If I’m alone and I have the luxury of nobody wanting to talk to me, I am in heaven. I write, I read, I recite, I sing, I make up fantasies and I free myself of all the noise that’s bothering me.

Three quirky things that nobody knows about you?

I prefer salt more than sweet, and yet I go chasing something sweet. I’ve memorised entire dialogues from Umrao Jaan and can perform them at will. And I can eat three kilos of ice cream in one night while watching a movie! (laughs).

PHOTOGRAPHS: AMITAVA SHAH;

STYLING: KOMAL SHETTY;

HAIR AND GROOMING: RESHMA LAKHA;

LOCATION COURTESY: THE OBEROI, MUMBAI

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