Why Draped Trousers Need To Be A Part Of Your Style Statement
It isn’t just an expression of individuality. These trousers blend heritage and modernity
There was a time when dhotis were strictly ceremonial—reserved for family rituals, auspicious occasions, or as one-off cosplay choice for an Arabian night-themed outing. But there’s a whole new story unfolding.
New-age drapes are effortless, elevated and built to boost your dapper quotient. No longer confined to occasions, they now speak the language of ease and everyday edge. Designers like Rishta by Arjun Saluja, Shantnu Nikhil, Antar-Agni and Tarun Tahiliani are reimagining it into something far more current—the dhoti-trousers hybrid.
You May Also Like: The Best Dressed Men At Met Gala 2025
Nikhil Mehra of Shantnu Nikhil observes that today, when personal style is becoming more important than following strict fashion rules, men are embracing the dhoti once again. “It’s no longer ‘costumey’—it’s expressive,” Mehra reflects. “Men are looking for garments that carry both comfort and conviction. The dhoti, with its fluid form and cultural resonance, checks both boxes. What we’re seeing is not nostalgia—it’s a conscious movement towards sartorial identity.”
The dhoti’s origins run deep—from the Indus Valley and Vedic scripts, long before fashion weeks and front rows. For centuries, Indians have owned this drape; then came the playful ‘man skirt’ iterations from the likes of Helmut Lang, Marc Jacobs, Riccardo Tisci and Junya Watanabe. From classic kilts to bold runway spins, menswear weeks in Milan and Paris have embraced the silhouette—with Jean Paul Gaultier and Charles Jeffrey Loverboy offering cheeky, off-kilter takes.
You may also like: The Bomber Kurta Hybrid Is The Coolest Menswear Trend
Fifty-six years ago, Rei Kawakubo—the iconic Japanese designer known for drapery and deconstruction—launched Comme des Garçons with a mission to challenge norms and blur boundaries. Her subversive, gender-fluid menswear from the ’80s—in monochrome, defined by asymmetry and draped to defy convention—set a whole new tone. Yohji Yamamoto’s wool-draped trousers deserve an honourable mention, too. And then there’s Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester’s modular spin on the silhouette—trousers that morph into jumpsuits with a flick of a strap.
Back home, cinema’s leading men have long immortalised the dhoti on screen—whether it’s Shah Rukh Khan in Devdas (2002), draped in Bengali fashion, or Aamir Khan in Lagaan (2001), knotting his dhoti with Awadhi flair. The late Sushant Singh Rajput brought 19th-century Kolkata to life in Detective Byomkesh Bakshy (2015). Telugu star Vijay Deverakonda has often cut a striking figure in bold dhotis, while Suniel Shetty chose one by Anjul Bhandari for daughter Athiya’s wedding.
You may also like: The Classic Double Breasted Suit Has Made A Comeback
Cut to the present, and the dhoti’s evolved form—pre-draped, elasticised and widely available—makes it all the more wearable, practical and desirable. According to Mehra, this isn’t a fleeting trend—it’s a reclamation of identity. “The dhoti’s resurgence reflects a larger shift: a generational desire to reconnect with heritage but through a stylised, modern lens,” he says. At Shantnu Nikhil, breaking traditionalism has always been part of the DNA, and the dhoti’s evolution fits right in. “What was once a symbol of formality or ritual is now being reimagined with new draping techniques, contemporary silhouettes and global pairings,” he adds.
The virality of dhoti-draping tutorials on social media—led by menswear bloggers like Rohit Bose and Akash D Prabhu—has Gen Z tuning into the elegance of drapes.
Designer Arjun Saluja, whose label Rishta is known for its free-spirited, nonconformist edge, believes it’s all part of how the modern man is evolving. “His work, his influences, even what he consumes— everything’s evolved. There’s been an erosion of conditioning,” he says. “Suits are no longer a mandate. With 23-year-olds working off their phones, their confidence comes from the imagery they consume. They don’t want to be boxed in.”
Twelve years ago, the brand’s collection titled Bu Shirt Meets Dhoti explored Indian androgyny. Rishta’s first piece? A pair of skirt trousers. “The dhoti and draping techniques are intrinsic to our culture—they embody utility, contradiction and dichotomy,” says Saluja, who has time and again deconstructed Indian silhouettes to create drapes that carry nostalgia, yet remain universally appealing.
You may also like: What's Next For Menswear, As Per Leading Designers
The brand’s Hakama trousers have since become bestsellers—versatile enough to dress up or down. “They’re rooted in mobility and utility. People keep coming back for these trousers,” he quips.
Every season at the FDCI-led India Couture Week, designers pair sherwanis, bandis and kurtas with dhotis and their updated interpretations. Take, for instance, Ranbir Kapoor walking for Kunal Rawal in a concept dhoti-trouser hybrid, or Tarun Tahiliani and Rimzim Dadu styling dhotis with separates like jackets and bandhgalas. The silhouette invites experimentation. “Inherently expressive, draped trousers carry movement, volume and personality. So when it comes to styling them, we believe in contrast and balance,” says Mehra, whose label often pairs these fluid bottoms with more structured, form-fitting tops. “Sharply tailored bundis, tucked-in high-collar shirts, or even military-inspired blazers,” he adds.
The idea is to let the drape breathe while grounding it with defined elements. “For footwear, it could be sleek ankle boots or minimal sandals—something that complements the silhouette without competing with it. Accessories can be pared back for quiet elegance—or bold: metallic brooches, leather harnesses, for a touch of rebellion,” Mehra suggests.
Ultimately, styling is a reflection of self. The draped trouser—much like the dhoti—isn’t about copying a look. It’s about making it your own, wearing it with confidence and letting your individuality shine through.
To read more stories from Esquire India's April 2025 issue, pick up a copy of the magazine from your nearest newspaper stand or bookstore. Or click here to subscribe to the magazine.