Gentlemen, The Necktie Is Back
Once a staple for putting together a sharp look, the necktie is sliding under collars again after a brief lull
Much has been said about the demise of the necktie and about it being one of the vestiges of a bygone era.
But not so long ago, a well-tied tie was like a man’s admirals club card, a badge of belonging to the civilised world. “Nice tie”... was one of the first things people would say when noticing a sharply dressed man. On screen, these men were Mad Men’s suave advertising execs, John Wick with his Van Wijk knot and Gordon Gekko, who elevated the pinstripe shirt with power ties. Style icons all, neckties secured, ruthless ambition and undeniable confidence in place.
The last decade or so saw the rise of sneakermania, the advent of athleisure and pandemic-induced norms for work dressing to cap it all off. All this made rules for formal dressing more fluid—and as comfort reigned supreme, the humble necktie simply took a backseat.
Now, the necktie is sliding under collars once again. And anything but humbly—the resurgence of the garment in recent men’s collections is proof enough. Prada highlighted them prominently: contrast-collar shirts, tie and trench. At Gucci, Sabato de Sarno gave a glimpse of a very off-kilter variation of the neck sash for men. Wait till you see those extra long ties fastened with chains.
All the celebrity outings in the recent past, too, indicate that the necktie is on the horizon once more. If you notice a marked increase in knotty business in the near future—remember, you read it here, at Esquire India.
The Necktie Wearer’s Guide
Colour, pattern, width or knot—all rules ask to be broken. Choose and wear a necktie in the way that best reflects your unique sense of style. What doesn’t change, however, is maintenance. A necktie is a technical feat of construction and must be stacked and stored carefully, without exception.
When untying, it’s better to go through the tying steps backwards instead of stretching or pulling the narrow end out off the knot. Since neckties are cut out of the fabric on the bias (diagonally), pulling can damage the fibres and leave it deformed.
Once untied, gently roll them up and leave overnight to remove creases. Subsequently, hang them up in the closet for them to regain their natural shape.
Cleaning calls for care, too. Washing ties like you do your other garments, could be disastrous. Send them to an expert dry cleaner instead.