This Summer's Breakout Layer For Men? The Craft-Core Jacket, Of Course!

While Indian men may swear by their minimalist Canali suits and Raghavendra Rathore bandhgalas, they're slowly gravitating towards a craft-led piece where every colour, motif and thread whispers tales of indigenous culture, techniques, folklore and textiles. A case in point being actor and producer Vijay Deverakonda's internet-breaking Torani jacket worn at his mehendi ceremony. This statement-making piece featured dainty embroidered windows held by parrots. elephants and peacocks - motifs drawn from Indian temple iconography. Clearly meant for a confident dresser who doesn't shy away from colours and embroideries. Another example which comes to mind is Varun Dhawan's Mayyur Girotra Limited Edition Kutch work jacket which the actor wore for a Garba outing in Ahmedabad. Haute and homespun! 

At the recently concluded Lakmē Fashion Week x FDCI, designer Kartik Research for his first ever show on homeground showcased his singular take on 'Indian future vintage'. The collection came alive with an array of jackets inspired by Kumra's travels across India drawing thoughtfully from the textile traditions that have shaped the brand’s identity since its inception. Also worth mentioning is designer Payal Pratap's denim jackets featuring bold foliage prints and layered textures developed through appliqué pleats, quilting and distressed washes that lent the garments a lived-in quality.

A craft continuum

Handloom products are no longer seen as frumpy but there's a sense of pride which the new-age, well-travelled Indian men takes in investing in them. Time-honoured techniques such as hand block printing, pintucks, pleating and embroidery developed across handwoven textiles, luxe silks and handspun cottons have been spotlighted by Indian brands which value heritage while evolving at the same time. For example, designer Abraham & Thakore collection titled, 'Sari’torial' served a litany of craft detailed jackets and layering options at the Lakmē Fashion Week x FDCI. 

Vijay Deverakonda Instagram/Torani Official

"What may appear as 'craft-core' right now is perhaps a larger shift in how people are engaging with clothing; there's a growing value placed on authenticity, process, and provenance. Jackets, in particular, offer a versatile canvas for this expression," says David Abraham.

In this collection, craft was not ornamental but embedded in the making whether through handwoven textiles, block printing, tie-dye, or embroidery. These techniques brought depth and individuality to garments that are otherwise quite understated in silhouette.

"So while craft-centric jackets may be having a moment, for us they represent continuity rather than trend. They allow heritage techniques to exist in a contemporary context refined, relevant, and easy to integrate into everyday wardrobes," says Rakesh Thakore.

Moreover, there’s also a clear shift toward investing in versatile pieces which are no longer confined to occasion dressing. The craftcore jackets can be styled across contexts, which makes them far more dynamic. Keshav Gupta, Founder & Creative Director of label Jorah Men says, "I do think it’s time for men to move beyond the predictable Nehru jacket. There’s so much potential in exploring new forms, I personally love a long, cape-style jacket for the drama and presence it brings."
The designer suggests pairing them with familiar basics like blue denim and a crisp white T-shirt to instantly make a crafted jacket feel relaxed and relevant.

Designer Prasoon Sharma of label Triune presented his collection titled; ‘Fragile Dreams’ underscored his hand-braided dori work seen across jackets at the fashion week. "At its core, the piece is built using hand-braided dori work, where multiple cords are intricately intertwined and layered to create a sculptural surface," says Prasoon. 

Once the braiding is developed, these elements are carefully attached onto the base fabric using a mix of hand embroidery and machine techniques to ensure both structure and durability. "The garment then goes through a detailed finishing process - each piece is dyed individually using natural dyes and later stone-washed. This gives the jacket its signature texture: something that feels both fragile and lived-in, yet inherently strong," he adds.

Be a layer slayer

In summers, especially, layering has to be intuitive breathable fabrics like handspun cotton or light silks ensure comfort through the day, while the structure of a jacket lends a certain polish as the day progresses into evening. "The interplay of structure and softness also plays a role here. A tailored jacket over a more relaxed, draped base creates a look that feels both laidback and refined. Subtle details like the Cocarde-inspired motifs or restrained use of colour—add interest without overwhelming the garment, making it appropriate across settings," adds David.

Designer Keshav Gupta of label Jorah Men suggests styling these artisanal pieces with shorter kurtas and wide-leg trousers, worn open. "It creates a more fluid, effortless silhouette. And sometimes, the most unexpected combinations work best, a structured jacket with jorts and flip-flops can feel incredibly current and unforced," he recommends.

Craft-core Jackets on our wish list:

Abraham & Thakore

Trust the maestros of monochrome to craft an easy breezy piece with subtle yet impactful detailing. This collared jacket with a patch pocket accent is a minimalist’s sartorial fantasy.

Jorah Men

Heading to a summer wedding, this jacket works wonderfully for a pre-wedding bash. Go tone and tone and style it with a pair of sunnies and a classic watch.

Kartik Research

Timeless & versatile, this zippered collared jacket embodies time-honoured craft and details. Offset it with neutrals or monochromes for summer outings.

Triune 

Built using hand-braided dori work, this sculptural piece will command attention at any given outing.  

Rahul Mishra 

Featuring the house's signature blooms, this souvenir bomber can be thrown over just about anything under the sun. 

Dior 

This frock coat is ideal for a red-carpet outing and lends itself beautifully to innumerable styling hacks. Just throw it over a basic white tee and a pair of straight-cut jeans.

Payal Pratap

This denim bomber featuring foliage texturing inspires instant desirability. Offset it with a tank and a pair of linen micro shorts as you head to a summer break.