In fashion, as in every other field, every time you showcase your collection, it’s like starting afresh. It doesn’t matter how fabulous your last work was; nor does the longevity of your career. Everything is now, in the moment. The spotlight is on you and the pressure is on. Those glaring lights, that ramp, the blaring music... it all builds up to that one moment. The one when the model walks out and your designs are out for the world to see, and judge.
It must be hard, letting your work sashay out (literally!) in front of prying eyes. But then, what is art if not consumed by a dozen people!
I was thinking all of this (and much more) sitting through many, many shows during my recent Russian sojourn for Moscow Fashion Week. It was an explosion of fashion, and I thoroughly enjoyed cosplaying a fashion critic, carefully looking at those stunning looks, making a note of names and brands that left me impressed. When there are that many names, it’s tough to make your mark, so the ones that did register certainly made an impression.
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These designers not only created beautiful clothes but also made a statement. Some chose drama, some others went for old-school sophistication. A few others merely had fun. But all of them made a strong case for menswear. And that’s always a delight to watch!
Russian Fashion Brands
Without further delay, here are my picks of 7 Russian designers that are going to be the talk of town across the globe soon!
BLNDVSN
Few designers had as much fun with fashion as this one. During the BLNDVSN show, there were no rules - menswear was anything like you’d seen. The collection was themed ‘The Grand Inquisitor’ and the clothes were designed to depict freedom was conformity and control. And the ‘experimental streetwear’ brand did just that. Models walked out not in ‘looks’ but irreverent clothing instead, and what a sight it was.
EDDER
Slutty dressing found a whole new meaning with EDDER’s show at Moscow Fashion Week. The brand that’s known for minimalism and a certain laidback vibe presented a line of smart casuals that looked comfortable, simple and sexy. Sitting through the show, I kept thinking how the clothes would be the perfect pick for Indian men. They’d be ideal for both work and leisure, in the boardroom and at the beach. How’s that for versatility?
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ERMILOV (ERMI)
Winter wear and layering are two of my favourite things and ERMILOV’s collection showcased both with absolute excellence. Predominantly in shades of black, white and grey, this was a show that brought back from fun in the cold winter climate of the city, even though it was supposedly spring season. The clothes made using a unique process of dyeing and restructuring spoke the language of sophistication and sass with equal ease.
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IGORGULYAEV
This Russian brand came up with one of the most dramatic shows at the Moscow Fashion Week. Animal print, see-through shirts, baggy pants... the IGORGULYAEV show was a vibe of the best kind. The collection had a merging of the past, present and future theme and true to form, the clothes didn’t stick to a specific era or trend. Everything was put together, mixed and matched to great effect.
LESIA LISUN
A brand that shows a relaxed fit anyway has a special place in my heart, and LESIA LISUN made an entire collection on anti-fit clothing. This artisanal brand certainly knows a thing or two about deconstructivism and that’s what they choose as their inspiration for the collection. The one lesson I learnt from the show was definitely to abandon ‘well-fitted’ for the near future.
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MUSAWENKOSi
Technically, this is a South-African brand, but they did show at the Moscow Fashion Week, so we’ll make an exception?
The bespoke menswear brand presented a collection so sophisticated, it stood out for its simplicity and nod to old-school dressing. Tailored suits in both black and white, waistcoats and berets, double breasted jackets, straight cut shirts and trousers – it was all exceptional!
SLAVA ZAITSEV
Like a painting, the clothes at Slava Zaitsev were both open to interpretation and free-flowing enough to defy your notions. The silhouettes were not structured, the shades were only monochrome. The brand’s collection was aiming to incite your hedonistic side while also gently poking your inner melancholia. This was one of the most ‘fashion’ of the fashion shows there – is that a compliment or a comment is for you to decide!
