The Hills Are Alive With Summer Adventure

What on earth do you pack for a ski resort in summer? That was my dilemma the night before a five-day escape to the French Alps. Gloves to ward off frostbite, they said. Anti-slip boots, heavy jackets, a woollen cap. But my weather app insisted otherwise: mostly cloudy, 13°C, not a snowflake in sight.

In the end, I went with common sense: one jacket, a cap, woollen scarf and sneakers. As it turned out, that was the right call. Stepping out of Lyon airport enroute to Valmorel, our first stop on invitation from resort chain Club Med, we were met with a wall of heat. Our driver said the summer had been so hot that public parks were opened at night for people to sleep outdoors, offering some respite from their suffocating apartments. I silently thanked myself for abandoning that 2 kg winter coat in New Delhi.

Valmorel Tales and Trails

The weather gods were kind to us in Valmorel, where the air stayed cool and balmy, with sudden spells of heavy rain. Part of the Le Grand Domaine ski area in the French region of Savoie, it’s a picture-perfect mountain village perched at 1,400 metres, built in traditional Savoyarde stone and wood. Watching cattle graze on the lush green meadows, I was reminded of my childhood favourite, Heidi, come to life.

In season, this ski resort offers 165 km of pistes (trails) for beginner and mid-level skiers. Once the snow has melted, however, there’s still plenty to do. The pistes transform into mountain-biking trails, gondolas ferrying bikes instead of skis, and the Club Med chalet resort has plenty on offer indoors too. A heated pool, hammam and spa offering best-of-line Sothys treatments, and an all-day bar and snack corner for when you’re feeling peckish. Of special mention are the activities for children, ranging from little ones as young as four months to teenagers of 18. Chatting with other guests, it seemed that this “something for everyone” quality was the real draw of the place.

That, and the chance to step outdoors phone-free, as my trekking companions—a Belgian lady and her teenage daughter—told me. Hiking had felt like the safest and frankly, most enjoyable bet for the less adventurous (read: me). Like skiing, the Valmorel trails are marked by difficulty, and I unhesitatingly opted for green, the easiest. Club Med had organised everything, from snacks to a guide. I asked the elderly, ebullient Frenchman who was leading us whether I needed a hiking pole. “Yes,” he said, then, by way of explanation, added, “This is the Alps”.

It was sound advice. The terrain, glorious to behold, proved challenging even on the easiest route. Along crumbling, rain-softened paths that grew steeper with every turn, our guide displayed the agility of a mountain goat, leading our small group through shaded woodland dotted with flower-filled meadows, gurgling streams and Instagram-worthy views. The air was fragrant with herbs and edible plants our guide pointed out along the way. (Back at the hotel, I tried Sapinette, a liqueur made from young white fir shoots he showed us. Definitely an acquired taste!)

To catch a glimpse of the slopes, we later rode the gondola up to Combe de Beaudin. In season, this is the hub where skiers transfer to chairlifts for the higher runs. The ride, lasting a little more than five minutes, unfolded a splendid panorama of Alpine beauty—smooth and indulgent, like a bite of the region’s famous chocolate. At the top, we paused to savour the fresh air and silence, soothed by the clear blue sky and the whispering wind. Then, it was back down to reality.

That night, we were invited to a fondue party at the resort’s reservation-only restaurant. Stirring the cheese was just about all the exertion we had energy for, especially since we were leaving for Tignes the next day.

At Club Med Valmorel, a ski tunnel caters to beginners at Valmorel

Glacier Highs in Tignes

While Valmorel was quaint, with a gentle bovine charm, Tignes felt made for Yash Chopra–loving Indians.

After a three-hour drive, the landscape shifted dramatically. It appeared more formidable, almost fierce, and the air was colder, sharper. Around one bend, the beautiful Lac de Tignes revealed itself, dotted with paddleboarders and kayakers even in this bracing weather. It was easy to picture it as the backdrop of a Bollywood song sequence, saree pallus flying in the wind.

Tignes is a destination for serious skiers, famed for its varied slopes and one of the longest ski seasons in Europe. The vibe at the three-year-old Club Med, in the village of Val Claret, at an altitude of 2,100 metres, is best described as groovy: larger, brighter rooms, vibrant carpets underfoot and art-covered walls. A lovely space to be indoors, yes, but the true star here is the outdoors. Standing on the patio at dusk, I was transfixed by the views—the slopes, the chairlifts, the mountains rising with such immensity that they made me feel terribly small. I closed my eyes for a moment, only to open them at the tickle of a sudden flurry. No, it couldn’t be—but it was. Snow! Could anything feel more magical in that instant?

Not far off, I could see the station for the Funiculaire du Perce-Neige, the underground train that would carry us to the trip’s crowning moment tomorrow: the Glacier de la Grande Motte.

That evening was an easy one, unfolding with Club Med’s signature entertainment line-up. It was unexpected but fun to watch the Chef de Village (general manager) and his team belting out Ricky Martin’s She Bangs. Their energy was infectious enough to get even the most reserved among us dancing along. The only dampener came with the announcement that our glacier visit would have to be postponed due to bad weather. So much for that magical snow moment!

From morning yoga to hiking, mountain biking, and kayaking, the Club Med team had plenty lined up for us the next morning, even as we held out hope that the skies would clear. Luck was on our side, and though it was a mad dash for the kayak crew from lake to funicular, we made it in time to board the last train at 2.45 pm, ready for our adventure.

At an elevation of 3,653 metres, the Glacier de la Grande Motte gives Tignes a skiable area even in summer (though it wasn’t open for skiing when we visited). Resembling a pneumatic tube system, the funicular whooshed us to the top, where we emerged into sunlight so bright I finally understood why sunscreen is essential. Standing on ice, and surrounded by snow-capped peaks, including the legendary Mont Blanc, it was the moment I had packed for: cap, scarf and jacket ready for the 2°C temperature. This definitely was the high point of the trip, pun intended.

Back in Val Claret, we took a quick stroll through the village, stopping at the charming Maison Bouvier bakery to pick up some artisanal chocolate. True to the all-inclusive promise, the resort offers a wide variety of dining options: meat and cheese lovers are well catered to, adventurous eaters can explore French classics (raclette, frog legs, even oysters!), and dessert fans are spoiled (the blueberry tart was to die for).

Mountain biking and kayaking are among the activities visitors can enjoy in ski towns during summer

Driving to Geneva the next morning, marking the end of the trip, we sat in pensive silence. Some were already thinking of their next stops, while others reminiscing about stellar hospitality and alpine adventures we’d had. Contrary to what one might expect in a tucked-away Alpine village, the Club Med team spoke excellent English, making everything seamless for international guests. Looking back, this trip felt like a moment suspended in time, much like the snow globe I brought home as a souvenir. In the years to come, I hope I can shake it gently and watch all the lovely memories we made swirl back around me.