Why Does Collagen Have Us All In A Chokehold?

Some of us go to therapy. The rest of us, however, stir collagen into their matcha and call that therapy.

It’s easy to see why. Collagen—the scaffolding of our bodies, the glue that keeps our skin supple and joints swinging—is now sold in sachets, dropped into lattes, stirred into smoothies, bottled in serums, or inserted into drinking water bottles. The supplement is having a bigger PR moment than Zendaya did during the Challengers movie press tour.

What was once a boring structural protein has been alchemized into the ultimate beauty supplement: tasteless, dissolvable, and pharmacy-friendly. It’s the modern fountain of youth. A powdered prayer that your skin won’t betray you.

But, um, have you stopped to look at the science?

The Cult of Collagen

There’s something romantic about the way proponents talk about collagen. The language is tactile: plump, bounce, glow, elasticity. You don’t just take collagen. You sip it. You swirl it. You fold it into your morning routine.

“Collagen has become the wellness world’s new protein powder,” says Dr. Bindu Sthalekar, a leading dermatologist and founder of Skin Smart Solutions. “It’s less about vanity now, more about preventative ageing. People want to age well—not just look young. And collagen plays right into that.”

It’s true: by your late twenties, your body’s natural collagen production starts to drop—silently, inevitably. And so begins the quest to rebuild what’s being lost. And so the quest to consume every product available in the market.

What the Science Says (and Doesn’t Say)

Let’s get clinical, briefly. Studies have shown that hydrolyzed collagen—broken down into peptides—may improve skin elasticity, moisture, and fine lines. But many of these studies are small and stacked with other ingredients: antioxidants, vitamins, hyaluronic acid. It’s hard to isolate collagen as the sole hero.

“Collagen supplements can be helpful, especially if you’re seeing early signs of ageing or recovery issues post-exercise,” Dr. Sthalekar says. “But they’re not magic. Think of it as topping up a tank that’s slowly leaking with age.”

However, sorry to break your heart, topical collagen? That’s mostly marketing. “You’ll get surface-level hydration,” says Dr. Sthalekar, “but it’s not building new collagen.”

The molecules are too large to penetrate the skin. What you’re feeling is hydration—moisture, not miracle. If you’re after real collagen stimulation, retinoids, peptides, and vitamin C are still your best bet.

But here’s where it gets interesting: efficacy is almost beside the point. The ritual feels good. And in the performance of modern wellness, feeling good is the point.

The Art of Ingestible Hope

Of course, that narrative doesn’t come cheap—or clean. Most collagen is animal-derived (marine, bovine, or poultry). If you’re vegan or vegetarian, you’re either out of the game or relying on “collagen boosters”—plant-based blends that nudge your body to make its own. You’re not drinking collagen; you’re coaching your body to remember how.

And yes—there are side effects. Gut issues. Acne. Kidney stress. Collagen is a protein, after all, and too much of a good thing becomes a metabolic mess. Moderation matters. So does sourcing. Dr. Sthalekar advises seeking hydrolyzed collagen from trusted, third-party-tested brands and avoiding anything with excess sugars or fillers.

The Real Glow-Up

Here’s the thing no supplement brand will say: if you want better skin, your first step isn’t collagen. It’s sunscreen. Sleep. Resistance training. A diet rich in protein and micronutrients—vitamin C, zinc, sulphur, copper.

It’s not sexy, but it works. (Surprise, surprise!)

Collagen isn’t useless. It might help. But if you’re banking on peptides to erase your 3 a.m. scrolling, your stress levels, your skipped meals and unwashed SPF—you’re missing the plot.

Sometimes, the best glow-up isn’t in a bottle, but in our habits and discipline. Or maybe it’s just in learning to be okay with your skin as it is.

And for the love of plump skin, wear your damn sunscreen.