Watches & Jewellery

Seiko Turns 145 With A Collection Painted In The Colour Of Old Tokyo

Marking 145 years of innovation, Seiko unveils a limited-edition lineup in Edo purple, a historic Tokyo hue that ties its pioneering quartz legacy to the city’s high culture and future-facing spirit.

Aditi Tarafdar

Marking 145 years since Kintaro Hattori’s Ginza shop, Seiko celebrates its legacy—from the 1969 Quartz Astron to today’s global influence—with a limited collection in Edo purple, the historic colour of Tokyo’s high culture. Six key lines, from Prospex Alpinist to the Rotocall digital, blend heritage design, modern calibers and restrained production numbers.

In 1881, a young watchmaker named Kintaro Hattori opened a small shop in Tokyo's Ginza district to sell and repair timepieces. By 1913, he had produced Japan's first wristwatch, the Laurel. But it was on December 25, 1969, that Seiko changed the direction of the entire industry, releasing the Quartz Astron 35SQ: the world's first quartz wristwatch, roughly 100 times more accurate than the finest mechanical watches of the era. Seiko later opened the patents to that technology, a decision that reshaped watchmaking worldwide and set off the quartz crisis, forcing Swiss manufacturers to rethink how watches were built and sold.

Now, after 145 years of winning over the world, Seiko looks back to Tokyo for its anniversary-edition releases. The limited-edition collection features dials that are Edo purple, a colour dating to the Edo period (1603 to 1868), when Tokyo was known as Edo. Purple historically was associated with refinement and hope for the future. In Tokyo, the shade came to be associated with the city's high culture, ultimately getting adopted as the background colour of Tokyo's official metropolitan flag.

Six of Seiko's most recognised watch lines carry the colour this time round. Check them out below.

Prospex Alpinist: A 1959 Original, Reworked in Purple

The Alpinist HBC006 revives Seiko's 1959 Laurel Alpinist, the brand's first entry into sports watches, right down to a version of its original logotype, now reworked beneath the Seiko name at 12 o'clock. Wedge-shaped indexes and Arabic numerals keep the dial legible, while a purple-stitched leather strap and a gilded seconds hand supply the anniversary flourish. Underneath sits the automatic caliber 6R55: 24 jewels, a 72-hour power reserve, and 20 bar water resistance packed into a 39.5mm super-hard-coated steel case with a magnifier-equipped sapphire crystal and rotating compass ring. The timepiece is limited to 7,000 pieces.

Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph: Racing Heritage in Edo Purple

Alongside the Alpinist is the Speedtimer Solar Chronograph HBJ005, built on the DNA of Seiko's 1960s and '70s racing chronographs. Its purple dial and aluminium tachymeter bezel are powered by the solar caliber V192, which adds a 24-hour hand and a power-reserve indicator to the usual chronograph functions. With 8000 pieces expected to retail, it is41.4mm and 13mm thick, with a curved sapphire crystal and 10 bar water resistance.

Astron GPS Solar: Tokyo's Evening Sky, Recreated on a Dial

Seiko's satellite-connected Astron line, first introduced in 2012, gets its anniversary edition in the HAB011. Its dial uses a vertical purple gradient layered with horizontal lines of varying width, an effect meant to mirror dusk settling over the skyline, while the ceramic center links dress up the bracelet. The specifications are leg up from the 2012 release: GPS-controlled time and time zone setting across 38 zones, dual time with AM/PM display, a 1/20th-second chronograph, a perpetual calendar good to 2100, and automatic daylight-saving adjustment. Housed in a titanium case with a ceramic-and-titanium bezel and Lumibrite-filled hands, it measures 43.3mm across and 13.4mm thick, resists water to 10 bar, and is limited to 2,000 pieces.

Presage Cocktail Time: Named for an Actual Drink

The Cocktail Time series has always taken its cue from glassware, and the HCB006 goes a step further by naming itself after a real cocktail: "Edo Murasaki," created by Hisashi Kishi, owner of Tokyo's STAR BAR and the first bartender awarded Japan's Contemporary Master Craftsman title. The dial is a deep, translucent purple with flecks that catch the light like scattered gold, set against a radial pattern. A GMT hand and logo pick up the gilded theme. Caliber 4R34 drives the watch, adding a GMT function with independently adjustable 24-hour hand to its 41-hour power reserve. The steel case and bracelet run 40.5mm by 12.8mm, water resistant to 5 bar, and comes in 6000 pieces.

Seiko 5 Sports SKX: The Cult Favourite, Dressed Up

Built on the bones of one of Seiko's most recognisable sports designs, the SKX-based HDB003 pairs a deep purple dial with gold detailing, vertically striated indexes, and a glossy Hardlex bezel: sportswear cut for slightly dressier occasions. The automatic 4R36 movement carries 41 hours of reserve inside a 42.5mm, 13.9mm-thick steel case rated to 10 bar. At 9,999 pieces, it's both the most affordable and the most widely produced watch in the lineup.

The Rotocol: The '80s Original HFL001 Returns in Purple

The collection's outlier is a digital watch nicknamed the "Rotocall," first released in 1982 and reissued last year. Its signature rotary switch, which cycles through the alarm, timer and stopwatch without a single button press, made it a favourite abroad, reportedly including among astronauts. This anniversary version keeps that mechanism intact and pairs a purple rotary switch with an all-black case, with gold picking out the logo and function indicators. Quartz caliber A824 runs the show, rated to ±20 seconds a month, inside a 37mm case at 10 bar water resistance. It's limited to 4,000 units.