Falguni Shane Peacock’s Ashen Roses Is Couture With Claws
The designer duo break down ‘Ashen Roses’ and how they balance structure, movement, and their sketch to runway journey
Falguni Shane Peacock know exactly how to put on a show. A full-scale, high-octane spectacle.
There was drama. There was power. There were contrasts. There were corsets. There was denim.
At FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week 2025, inside the electric glow of Mumbai’s Jio World Convention Centre, Falguni and Shane Peacock unveiled Ashen Roses, a collection that prowled on the runway.
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The set itself was a statement – a striking, high-tech installation reminiscent of their 2022 show, where an aircraft turbine dominated the stage. This time, though, the aesthetic was less about aviation and more about momentum. Grand, immersive, and industrial, the runway was bathed in the cool luminance of an overhead lighting rig, casting dramatic shadows that heightened the anticipation. It felt like a space designed for movement, for power, for silhouettes.
Then, the hush before the storm. As the music charged the air, Karan Johar and Tamannaah Bhatia stunned as they opened the show.
Karan walked with the kind of deliberate intensity that the moment demanded. A sheer shirt offered glimpses of his frame, layered under an oversized black jacket dripping in appliqué florals and tassels. Thick black-rimmed glasses framed his face, while jet-black nails and stacked earrings finished the look—dramatic, unmissable, and unmistakably FSP. Meanwhile, Tamannaah opened in a bejewelled corset teamed with black pants and a long-sleeved shrug.
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And then, like a silhouette cutting through the dark, the rest of Ashen Roses unfolded.
It was power, drama, and opulence distilled into razor-sharp tailoring, sculpted corsets, and gowns that dripped with embellishments. A tempest of contrasts—where structured cropped jackets met feathered overcoats, power-shouldered minis stood beside second-skin bodysuits, and metallic embroidery illuminated deep, inky hues. The collection prowled, unbound and unstoppable, echoing the instinct of the brand’s emblematic panther.
Corsets cinched like armour. Floor-length tassels whispered of decadence. Bedazzling blazers caught the light, and cropped jackets revealed just enough. And then there was denim—gilded, defiant, proving that couture and streetwear could collide in ways that felt both effortless and unexpected. The FSP edge was undeniable—where old Hollywood met modern rebellion, where couture collided with attitude.
In an exclusive conversation with Esquire, Falguni Shane Peacock unravelled the story of Ashen Roses—a collection that pulses with the energy of their panther emblem.
On the creative process behind the collection
“The collection started with a vision that was an exploration of contrasts—where we tried to meet structure and movement at the same point. We began by defining the core elements- the sharp tailoring, intricate embellishments and sculpted forms—before layering in textures that added depth and dynamism. Metallic embroidery, beaded detailing and precision-cut silhouettes then ensured that each piece commands attention, while fluid fabrics and feathered accents introduced a sense of ease.”
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On the essence of Ashen Roses
“The panther is at the core of our design philosophy—fearless, fluid, fierce. This collection channels that instinct. You’ll see the duality—razor-sharp tailoring meets fluid drapery, power-shouldered silhouettes balance against sculpted cutouts, and intricate embellishments create motion even in stillness. This collection mirrors the panther’s duality—graceful yet commanding, elegant yet untamed.”
On the evolution of Indian fashion
“Indian fashion has not just evolved—it has led the way in so many spheres. Over the years, we’ve watched India carve its space on the global fashion map, not just keeping pace but moving ahead in craftsmanship and cultural storytelling. From the rise in homegrown couture to the global recognition of Indian artisanship, the transformation has been extraordinary.”
On the journey of creation of the sketch—from paper to stage
“It [the sketch above] started differently—roses, thorns, a lyric from an old rock song. That’s where I initially thought the collection should go – towards the 70s, the 80s, the rockers. But as we worked, things started evolving. The rose fell off, the thorns disappeared, and the words faded. What remained was something raw, stripped down, distilled. But it felt so good to see it on stage. As a creative person, as a designer, when you see your pieces being worn, it’s a different feeling.”
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On their favourite Lakme Fashion Week moments
"There have been many, but one that truly stands out is our finale show we did in 2022, where fashion and fantasy came together. We created a set that resembled a spaceship crash-landing in the middle of nowhere—where humans from the future returned to earth. It was an ambitious vision for us, and bringing it to life required an incredible amount of brainstorming, collaboration and support. The scale of the set, the storytelling and the way it all came together made it an unforgettable experience."
On their collection, in one word
Fierce.