Have You Made The Shift To Soft Suiting Yet?

The recently concluded Milan and Paris menswear weeks saw designers taking the edge off the strict codes of formal tailoring. Think soft and decidedly nonchalant tailoring imbued with a lived-in elegance. Spring Summer 26 editions of menswear nod in favour of broken tailoring crafted in lightweight textiles and languid silhouettes imparting ease, movement and freedom.

For instance, Canali proposed loose and harmonious silhouettes resulting in clothes which caress the body allowing free and swift movements. The overarching inspiration came from vintage cars (Grand Turismo racing cars from the 1960s and 1970s, paying homage to Monza as part of the Brianza region of Italy) and their visually sumptuous interiors which informed stitching and tailoring. Enter suits, blazers, but also Nuvola suede trench coats and blousons - light as a feather, and as easy as a shirt. Weightlessness and texture were key in items that were soft and meant for hopping in and out of the car.

Jonathan Anderson's debut collection at Dior Men attempted to redefine formal wear with whimsy, nonchalance and wit. There were Louis 16th frock coats presented with patchworked jeans, or capes (a nod to Bram Stoker's Dracula) layered over untucked pinstriped shirts and schoolboy ties. In an effort to reimagine the formality, the designer viewed military jackets and cable knit jumpers through a disruptive lens. He also offered a dorky take on the Dior Bar jacket crafted from Donegal tweed.

The mood of SS26 reflects an evolving language in menswear—one where the core essence is ease without sloppiness. Designer Deepit Chugh of label Line Outline observes that tailoring now embraces fluidity over formality, with drawstring trousers, robe-like jackets, and elongated proportions seen at Louis Vuitton and Armani. "Expect a blend of artisanal fabrics and functional details, like tailored outerwear with cargo touches or blazer-shacket hybrids. While maintaining its relaxed feel, subtle elements like sculpted lapels or light shoulder padding may reintroduce form. Embracing artisanal craft and luxurious finishes, soft tailoring will continue to appeal to the discerning yet refined modern dresser".

Line Outline by Deepit Chugh

A case in point being Ishaan Khatter's softly tailored waistcoat and trouser look from Giorgio Armani which he sported at Cannes film festival. The actor layered it over a collarless summer shirt with rolled up sleeves.

Emporio Armani too eased up its core tailoring rendered in densely fashioned fabrics that embodied nomadic chic. Underscoring its signature supple tailoring, Armani made a case for tailored pieces realised in textured linens and cold-dyed cottons. Accentuating the desert-explorer vibe, the palette was an homage to the idea of being sun-tanned: shades of scorched earth, saffron sand and desaturated red recalled vacay snapshots from North Africa and Central Asia.

Moreover, there was ample louche and languid tailoring at Amiri with jackets cut with soft shoulders and elongated lapels, suiting half lined to lend fluidity and gentleness. Silhouettes echo the late 70s - mildly evoking the California coast or Riviera. Paul Mescal's relaxed-fit tuxedo look from Gucci at the Cannes red carpet embodied this spirit.

Paul Mescal in Gucci at the Cannes Film FestivalGetty Images

At Louis Vuitton, artistic director Pharrell Williams offered a tribute to the Indian dandy - flamboyant, playful and whimsical. Referencing the metropolitan environments of India he explored an instinctive relationship with suiting informed the collection's reality-driven dandy silhouette. Soft, nonchalant tailoring came imbued with a lived-in elegance further expressed in the way garments are worn. Complemented by the mismatching of patterns and cloths, the light and spontaneous layering of jackets, waistcoats and shirts with trousers or shorts – some crafted in superlight materials – created an intuitive approach to sartorial sophistication.

Also worth mentioning is Giorgio Armani's cult classic tailoring which was constructed from lightweight materials, prioritising fluidity and comfort. Key pieces included double-breasted jackets with shawl collars, low fastenings and abbreviated lengths. Trousers were wide with teardrop pleats, designed to taper at the ankle or fall with generous turn-ups. All in all, the silhouettes across the line-up intended to flow naturally with the body, ditching restrictions. In fact, leather trench coats and jackets were cleverly crafted to feel as light as shirts. It was hard to miss subtle nods to Armani's 1980s heydays recalling the drop-shoulder cutting on jackets, shirts and sweaters alike.

What’s interesting is how brands are marrying craftsmanship with comfort—creating silhouettes that feel as good as they look. Whether it’s the deconstructed jackets at Brioni, the breezy layering at Giorgio Armani, or the unlined linen suits at Canali, the message is clear: tailoring is no longer confined to formality.

Canali

Designer Saggar Mehra interprets this shift as a celebration of individuality and effortlessness. The designer's SS26 designs too explore broken suiting, softly draped shoulders, and lightweight natural fabrics that offer breathability and ease of movement. "Think jackets that move with the body, trousers with just the right amount of slouch, and styling that invites personal flair," says Saggar.

Brioni too broke down the edges of formalwear with a collection underscoring lightness and balance. Ease and fluidity were the guiding principles of the season offering tailoring which supported movement and crafted in materiality imparting breathability and flow. All in all, a consistent wardrobe which helps one make a seamless transition naturally from day into evening, business into leisure, without much effort.

Also meriting a special mention is Julian Klausner's Dries Van Noten debut which celebrated fluid silhouettes exemplifying supple tailoring. The designer proposed a silk sarong as a weekday uniform styled with a tailored jacket. At Saint Laurent too, Anthony Vaccarello presented a closet of roomy tailored shorts, boxy trench coats and trousers crafted in silk and nylon which effortlessly draped and emphasised cinched waists.

Soft tailoring is poised to evolve from being a seasonal trend to a core category. Menswear experts anticipate more exploration with technical-natural blends, performance fabrics, and textural play—from 'feel like second skin' silks to seersucker cottons. "Additionally, layering will become more intentional: overshirts over tailored vests, or relaxed tailoring paired with fluid complements," Saggar adds.