How To Spend 48 Hours In Ho Chi Minh City

Most Vietnam itineraries begin at its political and cultural hub, the capital city of Hanoi. But landing in Ho Chi Minh City, the country’s largest and most dynamic metropolis, felt like a fitting first taste. By the time my husband and I cleared immigration and stepped out of Tan Son Nhat International Airport (SGN), most of the city was still asleep. It was 3:40 am on December 26, and despite the ungodly hour, the airport’s lingering Christmas spirit and eateries extended a warm welcome. 

Ever the gung-ho tourists, we decided 3:40 am counted as early morning, and the day’s excursions must begin–the only catch, our Airbnb wouldn’t let us check in till noon. Regardless, they let us drop our luggage in the basement. By 5 am, we had downed a dragon fruit-condensed milk smoothie (so pink it could give hot pink a run for its money), and located the nearest Seven Eleven on Google Maps. Along the way, we figured, Ho Chi Minh City likes greeting the day early, and in style. Men, women, kids, and cappuccino-coloured poodles were out for walks with training totes; tennis courts volleyed in action; and eventually, the city’s signature road-side ‘toad’ cafes with low squat stools, Vietnamese coffee, and warm, crusty bánh mì (the country’s famous baguette sandwich) opened for business!

One sip of dark-roast Vietnamese coffee and the global obsession made complete sense. We were grateful for the caffeine kick too–it’d been a while since us millennials pulled an all-nighter. Our first stop was the Independence Palace (Reunification Palace), which opens as early as 7 am. This historic landmark and government-owned public hall is home to former presidential apartments, lavish state dining rooms, historic exhibits, and a rooftop helipad. The palace, best explored via headset guides, is surrounded by well-manicured lawns, fountains, and an in-house cafe. 

Then we visited the War Remnants Museum, which houses exhibits from the first Indochina war and the Vietnam war. No number of books or documentaries quite prepare you to witness replicas of the infamous “Tiger Cages” from Côn Sơn (Con Dao) Prison, the Agent Orange exhibit on chemical warfare, and the deeply moving war photography galleries. We spent about two hours going through the exhibits, and another hour on the ground floor, browsing the sea of souvenirs on display. 

Just a minute’s walk from the museum, we grabbed brunch at Saigon Corner–a diner which recreates the nostalgia of old-school Saigon, polished with local comfort food and an expansive coffee menu. We recommend trying their Vietnamese coffee with pandan jelly–adding a hint of grassy-vanilla like flavour, and Bún đậu hũ chiên–vermicelli with dried tofu. Other nearby cafes include Cà Phê Đỗ Phủ - Bảo Tàng Biệt Động Sài Gòn, The Hummingbird Café & Roaster, and XLIII Specialty Coffee.

Following our four-hour siesta, the next port of call was Ho Chi Minh City Post Office, located in the Paris Commune Square, right next to the Saigon Notre-Dame Basilica. Known for its immaculate French colonial architecture and grand vaulted railway-style ceiling, the active post office was once a 19th century communications hub. Inside, lively photo booths and grand iron columns led to a Christmas tree (at least 12 ft tall) and massive hand-painted maps from 1892, detailing greater Saigon, and telegraph routes across southern Vietnam and Cambodia. Old-school wooden counters retailing postcards and stamps added to the charm. There was no heading back without borrowing a pen, grabbing a seat at a quaint bench, and sending a handwritten souvenir home. 

Insider tip: Hop on the open-top double-decker bus tour tracing the city’s most iconic attractions. Starting at the Ho Chi Minh City Post Office, tours run from 8 am to the final one at 10:30 pm. 

The pedestrian-only Ho Chi Minh City Book Street ought to be your next stop. Stretching from the Hai Ba Trung Street to the Notre Dame Cathedral, this cultural hub boasts book stalls, stationery shops, sidewalk cafes, and live music–all beneath leafy trees strung with fairylights. For a hyperlocal experience, head to the Ben Nghe Street Food market, where over 30 stalls serve everything from Vietnamese pho, sushi and fresh seafood to BBQ, hamburgers, and dessert bowls. 

On day two, spend a lazy morning at the BNB, before making way to the Cu Chi Tunnels, located about two hours outside the city. The intricate network of underground tunnels offers a glimpse into guerrilla warfare tactics and hidden field hospitals from the Vietnam War. As the afternoon sun softened, we made our way to The Cafe Apartment–a 1960s nine-storey building (and a gourmand’s haven)–spanning cafes, bars, and international restaurants with striking city views. I recommend trying the Egg Coffee and Coconut Coffee at Good Day Cafe on the 8th-9th floors. 

Save some appetite for the Michelin-starred restaurant Bếp Mẹ ỉn (Le Thanh Ton Street), known for Vietnamese home-style food. Their savory pancakes, filled with shrimp, pork, and fresh bean sprouts, and Coconut Fried Rice served in a coconut shell, are a must-try. 

For the final flourish, head to the Saigon Skydeck at Bitexco Financial Tower’s 49th floor, about 178 metres above street level. Replete with telescopes and interactive exhibits, the skydeck offers 360-degree views of District 1, the Saigon River, and the city’s skyline.

The following day, we flew to Phu Quoc Island–a paradise in itself–but Ho Chi Minh City stayed with us–our first taste of Vietnamese flavour and culture.