In another life, Anand Morwani might have become an architect. Or maybe a doctor, like the many in his family. He might have spent his days sketching elevations or scribbling prescriptions. But even back in the seventh grade, Anand knew: the real blueprint he wanted to draw was for a restaurant. Not a bar or a diner, but a space that felt like something—alive with music, lit with intention, and layered with flavours.
Back in his Bandra childhood home, he was the one tweaking the playlist mid-song, taste-testing the biryani while the grownups weren’t looking, instructing caterers like a twelve-year-old with a clipboard. Hosting came as naturally as breathing. The Morwanis entertained often. You’d be forgiven for thinking he’d end up in events, or maybe architecture, but Anand—true to form—went off-script. Years later, with degrees from Les Roches and Le Cordon Bleu, and a passport full of culinary pit stops, Anand found himself back in Mumbai, not looking to replicate the fine dining temples he’d trained in, but to build something else entirely.
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That place, today, is Gaijin. Tucked away in Mumbai’s chaotic sprawl, Gaijin plays refinement on vinyl at just the right volume. Brutalist, broody, and brimming with intent, the restaurant translates the Japanese word for “outsider” into something of a manifesto. Here, Morwani—the Bandra boy with a palate shaped by Paris, Tokyo, and Tel Aviv—remixes Japanese cuisine with all the precision of a classically trained chef and all the irreverence of a local who knows when to break the rules.
Here, chutoro sits beside foie gras, trout gets cold-smoked over cherry wood, and the nigiri menu includes morels, 24k gold leaf, and a mushroom tostada that somehow tastes like a fever dream from Shibuya. And that’s before you get to the cocktails—a bar menu so meticulously mad, it includes bacon-washed vodka, chicharron toppers, and something called the Koji-presso.
Behind the theatrics is a man who cooks like he hosts—intuitively, emotionally, with a side of obsession. For Anand, flavour isn’t just about what’s on the plate. It’s about what you hear when it hits the table, what memory it stirs, what scent lingers in the air five seconds after someone walks away. That sensory symphony is deliberate. As is the chaos.
In an exclusive conversation with Esquire India, the ever-curious Chef Anand Morwani talks about his love for hosting, the making of Gaijin, how Tokyo’s street food inspired a Mumbai restaurant, and the art of building more than just a menu.
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Excerpts from a conversation.
From doctors to spatulas—was there a defining moment that made you choose this path?
I come from a family of artists and doctors, but somehow food and wine have always been at the centre of our universe—even dating back to my great-grandfather. It’s strange, but I clearly remember telling my mother in the 7th grade that I wanted to open my own restaurant someday. That moment stuck.
Looking back, my love for hospitality was shaped by many little things. My family entertained a lot, and I was always involved. It was just part of the rhythm of our home. I was also incredibly fortunate to dine at some of the world’s best restaurants from a young age, which really shaped my palate. More than anything, it was my mother who insisted we eat like locals wherever we went. That taught me so much—about culture, technique, and the nuances of food across geographies. Those experiences are the foundation of who I am as a chef today.
You’ve lived and worked in kitchens across the world, from Switzerland to Tokyo. How did these experiences shape your approach to food and cooking?
Studying at Les Roches in Switzerland and training in cuisine and pastry at Le Cordon Bleu in London laid the groundwork, sure—but let’s be honest, there’s no substitute for working in a kitchen. I’ve been lucky to gather mentors across different stages of my life. Some taught me how to cook, how to think about ingredients, and how to truly understand seasonal produce. Others taught me how to manage a business, and most importantly—how to lead and care for people.
Gaijin takes the guest on an immersive journey—what was the inspiration behind the backstreet alley concept that adds a touch of Tokyo’s chaos to Mumbai’s urban landscape?
The idea really came from my travels through Japan—walking down those buzzing alleyways of Shibuya and Harajuku. There’s a kind of organised chaos there that’s intoxicating. You’ve got smoky yakitori joints, bars tucked into narrow lanes, vending machines, signage everywhere—it’s alive and pulsing. We wanted to bring a slice of that energy back and into the restaurant and bar space. The goal wasn’t to recreate Japan—it was to reinterpret its spirit and marry it with Mumbai’s own rhythm.
What’s the process behind a dish at Gaijin? Is it gut, memory, technique—or a cocktail of all three?
Every dish starts with research—that’s the base. Then I dig into memory. I think about moments that moved me, smells that lingered, meals I can still taste in my head.Once that emotion kicks in, I pick the hero ingredient. From there, it’s about layering—adding textures, finding contrasts, letting flavours play off each other while making sure the main component shines through.
For example, the idea for our tenderloin katsu vs Yaki came to me in Osaka. I walked out of a Kushi Katsu place and got hit with the aroma of tenderloin being grilled roadside. It stayed with me. So now at Gaijin, you get a robata-grilled tenderloin paired with smoked oxtail croquettes.
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Mumbai is a tough crowd. What was the boldest creative risk you took with Gaijin that made you nervous?
Mumbai definitely keeps you on your toes. I’m a big meat eater, but I’ve always loved cooking vegetarian food. So, building a strong vegetarian section at Gaijin was something I really wanted to do—even if it felt like a bit of a gamble. For example, Koji has this blue cheese funk to it that’s not an easy sell, but I stood by it. Turns out, people loved it. That kind of feedback keeps you going.
What’s the story behind your favourite drink on the menu, and what’s the drink that most surprised you?
We’ve put in serious work on our beverage program. It’s led by Nischal Suman, with guidance from our bar consultant Varun Sudhakar and my partner Rohan. The three of them actually flew to Bangkok to experience some of the world’s best bars—we’re talking 120+ cocktails in three days. That trip really sharpened our vision.
Picking a favourite? That’s tough—it really depends on my mood. But Mt. Fuji stands out. It’s ceremonial, it’s sexy, and you get two servings in one go. What’s not to love about it?
As someone with a deep love for hosting and bringing people together, what’s the one thing you believe a great restaurant should offer its guests besides food?
Experience. That’s it. That’s the whole game.
At Gaijin, the food and service are a given—but we obsess over how the space feels. We try to create moments—little pockets of joy—that make people want to come back.
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What’s marinating next in your mind? Another cuisine? Another city? Or are you still living inside the Gaijin universe for a while?
There are definitely a few ideas brewing—different concepts, new formats, maybe even new cities. But right now, I’m fully in Gaijin mode. My energy is focused on refining what we’ve created—making sure the experience stays fresh, exciting, and true to who we are. We’re only just beginning to tap into what Gaijin can be, and I want to make sure we give it everything we’ve got before moving on to the next adventure.