Mandarin collared shirts are having a redux of sorts with pinup sensations like Ishaan Khatter styling them with their characteristic rizz. The Homebound (2025) actor wore a dark suit layered over a Mandarin collar shirt at a recent Cartier event. The suave dresser left the first shirt button unfastened and accessorised the shirt collar with a neck pendant. However, rocking a Chinese collar isn't something new to Ishaan's multi-layered style file. The actor has often incorporated mandarin collar shirts into his vast sartorial repertoire - both for appearances in India and internationally. A case in point being a custom creation by Gaurav Gupta at a recent awards show, where he teamed a sharp black jacket with a signature pin-tuck column shirt featuring a high mandarin neckline.
If there's one OG actor, who can be single-handedly credited for making mandarin linen shirts mainstream, it is Saif Ali Khan. The sophisticated dresser has an impressive collection of Chinese collar linen shirts, and he's often worn them on holidays and even while running errands. Even Saif's son Ibrahim Ali Khan too ushered in Rakhi festivities in a white mandarin collar shirt.
And it's not hard to understand why! It's an effortless style - relaxed, slouchy and breathable. Ideal to beat the humid weather! Another actor who's been nailing this style is Adytya Rraj, who was seen in a mandarin collar shirt layered under a dinner jacket by Sawan Gandhi. While one's on the topic, it's worth tracing this significant look's historical relevance and evolution. Also known as the Nehru collar, the mandarin collar was historically worn by the royalty and nobility of the Qing dynasty in Imperial China. Following its popularity across the mainland, this sartorial style was embraced by the British army. If one traces its origins in the Mughal period, there's enough artworks and illustrations which prove its popularity among Emperors like Jahangir. Later it became a phenomenon in the Indian Subcontinent with the then prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru (1947–1964) entrenching it on the fashion map.
However, over the decades, India Modern designers like Raghavendra Rathore have reimagined the mandarin collar separates like shirts, bandhgalas and achkans with a contemporary approach. Cut to the present and recent offerings by menswear specialist brands like Zegna, Sarah & Sandeep, Saggar Mehra, Sarab Khanijou and Sawan Gandhi have experimented with the Chinese collar shirts and jackets. ZEGNA highlighted relaxed, fluid leisurewear with clean stand and mandarin collars during its Summer 2027 Villeggiatura campaign and runway presentation. Looks like the trend is here to stay for good.
Designer Sarab Khanijou observes that menswear is leaning into a cleaner, more relaxed way of dressing. "The Mandarin collar fits perfectly into that—it’s minimal, sharp and works especially well with tailoring. It also has a certain familiarity for Indian men because of our history with band collars and Nehru-style dressing, but today it’s being interpreted in a much more contemporary, global way,” says Sarab.
The designer points out that a crisp Mandarin collar shirt works beautifully under a well-cut suit or dinner jacket, especially when one wants to skip the tie. "You can also wear it with tailored trousers for something more relaxed. I’d stick to solid colours like white, black or softer neutrals and let the cut and collar do the talking,” he adds.
Formality today is becoming less ceremonial and more instinctive. “You still want the sharpness of the shirt, but not the rigidity of a conventional collar or the expectation of a tie. The Mandarin collar gives you that middle ground. A Mandarin shirt with fluid trousers, a softly constructed blazer, and a good leather shoe or loafer. The contrast between a familiar neckline and a very international wardrobe makes it feel new,” shares Arun Kumar, Design Head, Rare Rabbit.
The renewed interest in the Mandarin collar reflects a larger shift in menswear which is moving away from conventional ideas of formality. For decades, the vocabulary of formal dressing was predictable lapels, pointed collars and ties. "Today, tailoring is becoming more nuanced. The modern man still wants to look sharp, but he doesn't necessarily want to look traditionally suited. The Mandarin collar offers exactly that balance. It creates a strong architectural line around the neck while removing the visual noise of a conventional collar. There is an inherent minimalism to it, but also a certain character. It feels structured without being rigid and ceremonial without appearing overly traditional," says Sandeep Gonsalves Co-Founder of label Sarah & Sandeep.
What makes it particularly relevant today is its ability to sit between worlds. It carries an Eastern sartorial reference yet works effortlessly within contemporary Western tailoring. "In many ways, it represents the direction modern menswear is taking less about following established dress codes and more about creating new ones," he adds.
Designer Gopi Vaid notes that the Mandarin collar has evolved into a modern menswear staple because it sits beautifully between tradition and contemporary tailoring. "It brings a sense of quiet formality and a distinctly regal Indian sensibility, without feeling conventional. For Gen Z, that versatility makes it particularly relevant — it’s polished, understated and effortlessly red-carpet ready.”
In terms of styling, the designer suggests playing with proportion and texture. "Think a sharply cut mandarin-collar shirt with relaxed trousers, or a structured Chinese-collar jacket layered over a kurta. Brocade and textured silks in deeper jewel tones — emerald, burgundy, navy and rose — add a richer, seasonal edge. The styling should remain considered and minimal, allowing the cut, fabric and collar to make the statement,” adds Gopi.
All in all, the broader menswear conversation in 2026 is also increasingly centred on experimentation in tailoring, unexpected styling and a move away from predictable formal dressing.
Here are some Mandarin collar shirts and jackets worth investing:
Zegna
Crafted in luxurious textile, this lightweight mandarin-collar style is designed for effortless summer layering.
Rare Rabbit
This crisp off-white shirt makes for a great neutral staple and can be styled with a bandi and also with a linen blazer.
Sarah & Sandeep
This military green shirt with criss cross detailing on the shoulder helps one make a seamless day to evening transition.
Sarab Khanijou
This sophisticated and textured mandarin collar ensemble is ideal for the festive season. Moreover, the separates can be mixed up with other pieces too.
Sawan Gandhi
Ideal for layering when the dinner invite reads - 'white tie'. A versatile layering essential.
Saggar Mehra
Digging the ornate take on the classic dress shirt. The textured placket makes it apt for festive outings.