DEMNA’S FIRST YEAR AT GUCCI HAS been something of a retrospective exercise. First came ‘La Famiglia’, a film-led introduction to the House’s ’70s codes, followed by a more body-conscious take on the sexed-up Gucci of Tom Ford’s ’90s.
His third outing, ‘The Store Show’, felt like a more complete expression of his own vision, bringing these references together. Menswear set the tone, moving from narrow, almost Fordera tailoring to prep-school staples and Demna’s familiar streetwear combinations. Cropped trousers met sockless loafers, fitted jackets came with pronounced pagoda shoulders, and stonewashed denim took some of the starch out of the tailoring. Quilted jackets, striped rugby shirts and Harringtons brought an Ivy League sensibility to the mix. Outerwear was also worn half-off the shoulder.
Gucci’s enduring equestrian signature, the horsebit, appeared in oversized proportions, miniature hardware and a triple-Horsebit cummerbund belt that cinched New Romantic ensembles. The Marmont belt and diamond Gucci nameplate necklaces added their glamour, while angular, elongated loafers gave a familiar House staple a sharper profile. Both men and women were spotted with pop-colours around their eyes and goth hair that added a subversive note to the wardrobe.
Presented in Milan on September 25, ‘The Store Show’ was staged inside a purpose-built Gucci boutique, conceived as a preview of Demna’s vision for the house’s future retail spaces. The setting was more than an elaborate backdrop. A store is where a brand’s idea of itself meets the people who buy into it, and Demna’s cast of characters made that relationship the point. The Rebellious Aristocrat, The Snob and The Eccentric offered three different ways into Gucci, each with its own relationship to propriety, status and excess.
The result was a wardrobe that refused to settle on one idea of the Gucci man. One look favoured the precision of a narrow suit, another the studied nonchalance of slouchy denim. Equestrian hardware rubbed shoulders with streetwear, while statement jewellery and exaggerated proportions gave familiar house codes a more theatrical edge. Seems like this Gucci doesn’t belong to one particular kind of man, nor does it need to dress like it does.
To read more stories from Esquire India's November 2026 issue, pick up a copy of the magazine from your nearest newspaper stand or bookstore. Or click here to subscribe to the magazine.