The Watches That Forever Altered the Course Of Horology
The firsts and the forever classics
Listen, we might have phones now to tell time, but for the longest period in human history, a wristwatch was the biggest signifier of time and the wearer themselves. Ever since wristwatches became a thing, practically every historical figure has gone down in history wearing one. And while it's no rocket ship, they are one of the most exquisite pieces of wearable engineering that there is. They're built for divers. They're built for Formula 1 racers. They're built for pilots. Omega even had its watch sent to the moon when Neil Armstrong took that fateful first step. If anything, watches are a piece of history in themselves, and the following marked major milestones that elevated the humble timepiece to the status symbol it is today.
Breguet Classique Tourbillon
Abraham-Louis Breguet’s invention of the tourbillon in 1801 was a seismic moment in mechanical watchmaking. Designed to counteract the effects of gravity on pocket watch escapements, the tourbillon elevated precision to an art form. Beyond its technical merit, it became a hallmark of watchmaking, signalling both engineering mastery and aesthetic sophistication. Today, any watch featuring a tourbillon instantly becomes a piece of art and sophisticated engineering.
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms
Long before the Submariner, the fifty fathoms defined what a dive watch should do. Introducing the first unidirectional rotating bezel, water-resistant steel case, and luminescent markers, it combined technical reliability with practical safety. Its military provenance and adoption by Jacques Cousteau cemented its role not only as a professional tool but as a cultural emblem of underwater exploration.
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Cartier Tank
The Cartier Tank transformed wristwatches into style statements without sacrificing practicality. Its rectangular, military-inspired case and Roman-numeral dial established a visual template that has influenced countless watches since 1917. More than a timepiece, the Tank became synonymous with elegance and modernity, worn by leaders, artists, and cultural icons like Princess Diana and Muhammad Ali.
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1
Introduced in 1994 after the revival of the Lange brand, this watch paired an unmistakably asymmetrical dial layout with the instantly recognisable “big date” display in a double window - the first date watch of its kind. Beyond the aesthetics, the in-house movement showcases Saxon craftsmanship: three-quarter plates in untreated German silver, Glashütte stripes, hand-engraved balance cock, and the swan-neck regulator.
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar
The IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar redefined mechanical calendars by allowing all displays (including day, date, month, year, and leap-year cycle, including even the exception years) to be adjusted through a single crown. This fully synchronised mechanism made one of watchmaking’s most complex complications remarkably intuitive, a feat unheard of at the time. Beyond technical brilliance, the Da Vinci played a crucial role in revitalising mechanical watchmaking during the quartz crisis. It remains the cornerstone of IWC’s perpetual calendar legacy and a benchmark for user-friendly complexity.
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Ulysse Nardin Freak
Speaking of complexity, the Freak shattered conventional watchmaking norms by discarding hands, dial markers, and a traditional crown. Its carousel movement doubles as both time indicator and escapement, a manifesto of mechanical creativity. By reimagining functionality and aesthetics simultaneously, the Freak forced the industry to question what a watch could be, opening the gates for avant-garde horology and mechanical audacity.
Zenith El Primero
The El Primero was the first fully integrated, high-frequency automatic watch. Its column-wheel mechanism, 36,000vph frequency, and integrated construction set a new standard in 1969, enabling 1/10th-of-a-second timing. Beyond technical achievement, it inspired generations of chronographs and remains a cult classic whose influence persists across decades, powering both historical reissues and modern innovations.
Omega Speedmaster Professional “Moonwatch”
The Speedmaster earned its immortality by being the first watch worn on the moon and surviving NASA’s extreme testing regime (we suggest you read up on the fascinating story behind it). Beyond its spacefaring credentials, it introduced the tachymeter bezel to the wrist chronograph and retained a design nearly unchanged for over half a century.
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Rolex Submariner
Although Blancpain introduced it, the Submariner set the standard for dive watches and the modern luxury sports watch. Its rotating bezel, water resistance, and bold design became the blueprint for countless subsequent models. More than a professional tool, it evolved into a symbol of rugged sophistication as the watch that can withstand the forces of nature. The Submariner remains Rolex’s flagship, synonymous with the brand itself.
Seiko Astron
The Seiko Astron changed the course of watchmaking by introducing the world’s first quartz wristwatch in 1969. Its unmatched accuracy and reliability disrupted centuries of mechanical tradition and sparked the quartz revolution that brought Swiss watchmaking to its knees. Sure, the purists love themselves a mechanical watch, but you can’t deny that quartz movements were way more accurate than mechanical ones at a fraction of the price.
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Apple Watch
Launched in 2015, the first Apple Watch made history by ushering in the era of smartwatches. It fused connectivity, health tracking, and personal customisation with a sleek, digital interface, transforming the wrist into a hub for communication, fitness, and lifestyle management. Beyond its technological innovation, it popularised wearable computing for the mainstream, creating a new category that bridged tech and fashion.