Once upon a time, the measure of a man’s watch was its ability to loom. In the post–Royal Oak era, size became shorthand for status; the bigger the case, the louder the statement. By the mid-2000s, wrists were groaning under the weight of 44mm Panerais, diamond-paved Hublots, and limited-edition monsters that could double as espresso saucers. But style—real style—has a way of recalibrating itself. The pendulum has swung, and in 2025 the most telling statement you can make is to wear something small. Not “tastefully restrained” in the 39mm sense. Go smaller. Blink-and-you’ll-miss-it small.
Hollywood has been the most conspicuous stage for this reversal. Paul Mescal’s Cartier Tank slinking across the red carpet. Timothée Chalamet stacking two minis. Henry Golding in a burgundy Tank. These weren’t oversized declarations, but defiant against the inflationary logic of modern watch culture.
Paul Mescal, watch detail, attends "Gladiator II" The Royal Film Performance and Global Premiere at Leicester Square on November 13, 2024 in London, EnglandPhoto by Jeff Spicer/Getty Images
Historically, small was the default. From the early 1900s until the 1980s, the pinnacle of watchmaking meant miniaturising the movement without sacrificing accuracy. Slim, light, perfectly proportioned—these were status symbols of precision. It wasn’t until the dive watch boom of the 1950s and the sports-watch takeover of the ’70s that cases started inflating. Fifty years later, vintage watch collectors—many with wrists more accustomed to Apple Watches than mechanical chronographs—discovered the elegance of smaller proportions.
There’s also a stylistic truth here: smaller watches play better with the relaxed tailoring and fluid menswear silhouettes of today. They read as confident rather than cautious—an accessory, not an announcement. As celebrity stylist once put: “Try to picture Gene Kelly or Bogart, Peck, Astaire, or Rock Hudson in some bulky watch… it just doesn’t work.”
The shift away from the hypertrophic era has been gradual, coaxed along by the twin forces of vintage watch collecting and the loosening of gendered codes in horology. Where once “ladies’ sizes” were quarantined on pink-velvet display trays, they’re now finding their way onto the wrists of men who see no contradiction in wearing a 23mm Royal Oak or a 31mm Datejust.
And here’s the other truth: small watches are more fun. Their reduced footprint invites risk—unexpected materials, unconventional straps, the kind of colour play that would look cartoonish at double the scale. They function as both watch and jewellery, a bridge between the precision of engineering and the looseness of personal style. In an age where “quiet luxury” has gone from insider term to Instagram hashtag, the miniature watch is one of the few accessories left that can still surprise.
The Small-Watch Edit
Which is why, if you’re ready to join the small-watch renaissance, here’s your cheat sheet of tickers worth hunting in 2025.
Cartier Tank Américaine (19mm)
Cartier Tank AméricaineCartier
A stretched, slimmer take on Cartier’s most famous design, the Américaine wears like a bracelet but carries the Cartier signature elegance – Roman numerals, blued steel hands, the old-school money poise. This watch pairs well with a tux but also t-shirts.
Cartier Tank Louis Mini
Cartier Tank Louis MiniCartier
The archetype of the rectangular dress watch has now come in a miniature version. The mini’s return last year—helped by Mescal and Chalamet sightings—cemented it as the “if you know, you know” watch of the moment.
Longines Mini DolceVita
Longines Mini DolceVitaLongines
A sub-£2k alternative to the Tank, with the same dial, Roman numerals, and slim profile. The rectangular stainless-steel case and white dial give it formal credentials, but the accessible price point makes it an easy entry into the world of scaled-down dress watches.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic Small (25mm)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Classic SmallJaeger-LeCoultre
The Reverso is a design icon; miniaturising it without losing JLC’s craftsmanship is no small feat. It’s still the sexiest reversible case in horology.
Rolex Datejust 31
Rolex Datejust 31Rolex
Did you not think Rolex can also do restrained? The Crown’s most versatile model shrunk to an elegant 31mm case. It retains Rolex’s calibre 2236 automatic movement and COSC certification, delivering serious mechanical pedigree in a smaller size.
IWC Portofino 34mm
IWC Portofino 34mmChrono24
Technically a women’s watch, but the 34mm Portofino is a sweet spot for men looking to downsize without going full micro. The slim case, clean dial, and understated markers make it feel vintage without being fussy.
Piaget Polo 7131 C701
Piaget Polo 7131 C701Piaget
A cult 1980s reference in 18k yellow gold, distinguished by its square case and integrated bracelet. Limited in production and unmistakably Piaget.
Tissot PRX 25mm
Tissot PRX 25mmTissot
The popular PRX, reimagined in a 25mm case, keeps its integrated bracelet and retro-sport personality intact. Affordable, stylish, and a gateway drug to the small-watch habit.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Mini
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak MiniChrono24
At 23mm, the frosted-gold Mini is less tool watch, more jewellery. It features the Petite Tapisserie dial and luminescent hands of its larger siblings.
