Inside The World Of Men Who Collect, Curate And Cherish Timepieces
Collectors span a spectrum - from heirlooms to luxe acquisitions. But the greatest treasure? Discovering that time is inextricably tied to stories.
Wrist Deep In Memories
For Jayesh Kumar, time isn't just something you tell.
“When a watch stops, time—at least in your world—stops too,” says Kumar, chef-owner of Brooklyn’s beloved Lore restaurant and an ardent watch collector.
The chef grew up in Mangaluru, where his first brush with watches came from a place of quiet admiration: his father’s wrist. “He wore an old-school [Rolex] Datejust with a black dial and that magnified date window,” Kumar recalls. “I was fascinated by it as a kid. That bubble over the date just felt magical.” But it wasn’t until later in life, while studying and working as a chef in Switzerland, that his fascination turned into a full-blown passion. “Honestly, watches came first,” he says with a laugh. “When I was deciding where to go study abroad, I thought—why not go to the epicentre of watchmaking?” Basel, with its horological heritage, uniform railway clocks and events like Baselworld, became his classroom in more ways than one.
Today, Kumar owns around 45 watches, each carrying its own memory, its own heartbeat. “It’s not a massive collection, but every piece has a story,” he says. “I’m not in it for the hype. For me, it’s about the emotion behind it—the people, the moment, the connection.”
One such piece is a 1967 Seiko Sportsmatic that belonged to his father—the year Kumar was born. “That one’s really sentimental,” he says. Then there’s a Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Memovox, gifted to him by a close friend. “I even wore it to my naturalisation interview—it was like having a piece of him with me,” he says. “That JLC means more to me than any Patek ever could.”
Another favourite is his bright orange Breitling Superocean, a gift from his wife, Daria. It once belonged to her father and was the one watch she kept after his passing. “She gave it to me on our wedding day. She said, ‘This one’s from me.’ It wasn’t about the brand or the specs—it was about what it meant.”
For all the treasures in his collection, one grail remains out of reach: the Vacheron Constantin 222 in steel. “It’s such a stunning watch,” he says. “I’m just waiting for the call.”
Whether it’s food or watches, Kumar is drawn to the craftsmanship, the heritage and the emotion that ties it all together. “My collection is like my cooking,” he says. “Personal, layered and full of stories.”
By Abhya Adlakha
You may also like
Kerala's Spirit, Marked In Time
Sohan Balachandran founder of TimeGrapher—an exclusive community of horology enthusiasts from Kerala—doesn’t just collect watches. He gives them away, too.
A physics graduate now pursuing a master’s in data science and AI at IIT Mandi, Balachandran can often be found at remote schools in Kerala, slipping a watch onto a young wrist—along with ₹10,000 in financial aid. The thrill in his voice is unmistakable as he recalls gifting a wristwatch to a child who had never owned one.
For Balachandran, it’s never been about price tags. It’s about the magic of a first watch—a moment he remembers well himself—and the belief that watches don't just keep time; they also tell stories.
The 29-year-old recalls receiving a timepiece that instantly became his most prized watch—a Zeno Basel 1968 Certina 13 AS 100 Calibre, part of a limited edition of 100, gifted to him by a member of the Travancore royal family. Hand-picked during a visit to Basel, the piece—numbered 001—is even more special for its rare mechanical alarm and extraordinary provenance.
Balachandran didn’t stumble upon watches—he built a home in them. Growing up around stories of motors and machinery, thanks to his father’s work in automotives, he was naturally drawn to mechanical marvels. “When I realised watches could be mechanically powered, it sparked my interest,” he says.
His collecting journey only began after graduation. “I started with a couple of HMTs, but there was limited information available, and not many were collecting them. That’s why I founded TimeGrapher in 2017.” Initially an Instagram page, it quickly grew into Kerala’s first watch collectors’ community, now with 11,000 active members across nine countries, including Dubai, the UK and the US.
The community proudly showcases its Malayali roots, blending horology with Kerala’s rich heritage, and has launched two limited-edition watches: Nazhika (a Malayalam unit of time) and Olam. So, it’s no surprise that Balachandran’s favourite from his collection of over 55 watches is the Olam. This 400-piece, 40mm stainless steel watch features hands shaped like oars, symbolising Kerala’s boating races. For the young collector, the Olam represents his connection to Kerala’s heritage and his passion for timekeeping, reflecting both his personal journey and the spirit of the community.
By Rudra Mulmule
Friendships That Keep Time
"I never set out to become a collector,” says Sarosh Mody—a sentence that, more often than not, signals the start of a lifelong obsession.
Ironically, Mody didn’t chase time; time chased him. Or rather, it found him in the form of a modest, hand-wound HMT, picked up on a whim before a work trip to Switzerland in 1998. Back then, armed with a plane ticket but no watch on his wrist, Mody grabbed the mechanical HMT, wore it, modified it and unknowingly sparked a passion that would define his career. “That’s when the bug bit,” he says.
Today, the Mumbai-based horologist stands as a veteran of the industry, with nearly three decades spent working with maisons like Piaget and Vacheron Constantin, training in Switzerland, and now helming Luxury Watch ‘It’s never constant. As collectors, we’re always chasing the next emotional high’ Works—his own tribute to the art of timekeeping.
Unlike collectors chasing new drops and modern hype, Mody is drawn to what he calls the golden era—watches made between the 1960s and early 2000s, when design and mechanical ingenuity worked in harmony. “For me, it’s about a mix of aesthetics and technical relevance,” he says. Modern releases rarely tempt him.
In his collection, you won’t find oversized statement pieces. He prefers smaller cases—24mm to 27m—sizes the industry now often markets as feminine. “I have larger pieces, but they haven’t seen the light of day in over a decade.”
His favourite brands include TAG Heuer, Ulysse Nardin, Vacheron Constantin and Baume & Mercier. When asked to pick one favourite, he likens it to choosing a favourite child. “But right now, the Cartier Ceinture and a Piaget with a lapis stone dial are getting the most wrist time,” he shares. “It’s never constant,” he adds. “As collectors, we’re always chasing the next emotional high.” If he could dream big, Mody would choose a minute repeater with a perpetual calendar—a fantasy he hopes to make a reality one day.
For Mody, the true essence isn’t timekeeping—it’s connection. “Time on its own is boring,” he says. “It’s people who make it matter.” Watches, for him, are entry points—into conversations, into friendships.
“That’s why they say it’s the company you keep that makes all the difference. Collectors come together not just for the watches, but because of a shared mindset, a sense of like-mindedness,” he explains.
By Abhya Adlakha
You may also like
Powered By Purpose
In a world where most glance at their phones or flick their wrists for instant notifications, Amol Nayak still takes a moment to watch time. Not out of habit, but out of reverence. “There was a time when you had to look at your watch or clock to know the time. Today, your phone flashes the time whether you want it to or not. I prefer to acknowledge time," he says.
An architectural designer with a passion for motorsports and chronographs, Nayak’s watch collection reflects a blend of design sensibility and a deep appreciation for horological artistry. Unlike many who follow trends or chase big names, he seeks out unique timepieces—watches with originality, character and history.
His journey into watch collecting was sparked by family heirlooms and has since grown into an archive of over 365 pieces. “I’ve always been a self-driven collector,” he reflects. “My curiosity about brands, movements and styles has led me to dive deep into the world of wristwatches.”
Utility, not ornamental appeal, defines his collection. He’s drawn to functional yet stylish pieces, like the Oris Aquis Date Upcycle—a self-winding watch made from recycled plastic. The Omega Speedmaster is another favourite—but this one is inspired by the racetrack rather than the moon. “I’ve got a number of Michael Schumacher limited edition coloured Speedmasters…because they’re automatic.” His Chopard Mille Miglia is another key player in his collection—sleek, elegant and built for the track. “It’s a driver’s watch. I like watches that look good with anything.”
For Nayak, watch collecting has evolved from a design-driven passion to a personal archive filled with purpose. “It’s been incredibly fulfilling and engaging. It’s filled a lot of empty spaces in my life,” he says.
By Rudra Mulmule
From Mickey To Breitling, A Collection With Heart
For most six-year-olds, a Favre-Leuba Twin Power and a Titoni Airmaster might feel a little... premature. But for Aashdin Billimoria—distinguished horologist, collector, archivist and historian—it was the start of a lifelong love affair with watches. “I come from a family of watch collectors,” he says. “My dad and uncle gifted them to me during my religious initiation ceremony in 1979. There was no turning back after that.”
Describing his collection as eclectic, emotionally charged and steeped in history, Billimoria chooses pieces that spark joy—whether it’s a playful Mickey Mouse watch or a vintage Breitling. At the heart of his trove sits a crown jewel: a rare 1950s Universal Genève Polerouter Day Date in solid 18K gold, its dial etched with the Scandinavian Airlines System (SAS) logo. Originally crafted for dignitaries and senior executives, the Polerouter was engineered to brave the magnetic fields of transpolar flights, a feat that cut travel time dramatically between Los Angeles and Copenhagen when the first flight took off on 15 November, 1954. Today, the watch stands not just as a marvel of mid-century design and engineering, but as a living relic of aviation’s golden age.
“My tastes have evolved over the past three decades—from simple three-handers to more complex complications,” says Billimoria, who studies watches daily and still learns something new every day. Author of three books, including A Comprehensive Guide to Vintage Swiss Watches—launched at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2024—Billimoria is a member of the Horological Society of New York and the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors USA, and has been formally recognised for his contributions to the field. “I'm a big fan of chronographs, GMT and world timers, character watches, wrist alarms, as well as watches with a rich history, and endeavour to add them to my collection. I zero down on my favourites, and the hunt begins! Some take a few weeks; others, almost a year. That's how I meticulously build my collection..." he says.
By Jeena J Billimoria
You may also like
Living For Time
Mayank Barodia speaks with a sense of maturity that very few wear on their wrists. A watch collector for the last 25 years, Barodia is the owner of Gangoly Brothers, Delhi’s oldest watch shop that turned 90 this year.
Naturally, the 46-year-old grew up around watches and rare timepieces. But his most cherished watch is a family heirloom. “I don’t have a centrepiece in my collection. But my most valuable watch is a Rolex Presidential Day Date, which my grandfather Bipin Bhai Barodia wore. I am the third generation in my family to wear this watch,” says Barodia.
With a collection of close to 200 watches, Barodia has no dearth of incredible timepieces. While we speak surrounded by the sound of chiming clocks at his store, he shows me a Zenith Grande Port Royal V El Primero on his wrist. The first watches he ever held in his hands included a Jaeger-LeCoultre and the famed HMT, but he started his own watch journey with a Swatch Skin. “My father was leaving for Switzerland, and I asked him if he could get me one of those,” says Barodia
Earlier, his buying and collecting decisions often veered towards chronographs and sports-style watches. “I’ve now come back to vintage and dress watches. I’ve started liking dial sizes between 38mm to 41mm instead of bigger dials. You could call it an age factor,” he adds.
Interestingly, the season often dictates what Barodia puts on his wrist. In summers, he’ll opt for a silicon strap. When it gets cooler, he often goes for watches with a leather strap and hues of gold. “I live for watches. I earn from watches. I spend on watches. For me, it’s a full circle,” says Barodia, who wants to add either a Patek Phillipe or an Overseas—one of Vacheron Constantin's most successful models.
Barodia is a permanent fixture in the city’s watch collectors’ circle. His advice for any young collector or watch enthusiast is simple. “I always tell the youngsters. Read about the watch you want to buy. Try it on. Sleep on it and then decide. Buy a watch that you connect with.”
By Nitin Sreedhar
To read more stories from Esquire India's April 2025 issue, pick up a copy of the magazine from your nearest newspaper stand or bookstore. Or click here to subscribe to the magazine.