
AI generated summary, newsroom reviewed
One of the best things about this year was that for once the chronograph, a complication that's been around since 1816, actually had something new to say. Brands didn't stop at a fresh dial colour and a press release this time. Rolex fired enamel onto a steel Daytona for the first time in its history. TAG Heuer built a chronograph mechanism with no springs or levers at all. Parmigiani Fleurier made the chronograph hands disappear until you actually need them. Below, we list some of the most impressive new Chronographs that are worth the splurge in 2026.
After six decades of watch history, Rolex just gave the Daytone its first-ever fired-enamel dial. Rolex calls it Rolesium: an Oystersteel case with a platinum bezel ring and caseback (another first time combination for a Daytona). The white dial is grand feu enamel, fired onto a ceramic base at temperatures above 800°C, and the anthracite Cerachrom bezel uses tungsten-rich ceramic with PVD platinum tachymeter markings for a vintage read. Flip it over and you'll find another first: a sapphire exhibition caseback on a steel Daytona, showing off Calibre 4131 and its 72-hour power reserve. Unsurprisingly, it's classified as an "off-catalogue" Exceptional Watch.
Released in April this year, the TAG Heuer Monaco Evergraph gives the cult square chronograph a technical update. Its 40mm titanium case houses the new TH80-00 movement, and with it, the traditional chronograph's usual mess of springs and levers is exchanged for a single flexible component. The lightly skeletonised dial offers a view of the movement that delivers a 70-hour power reserve. Call it an expensive fix for a problem that wasn't broken, or the first huge chronograph reinvention in years, the Evergraph is bound to start conversations.
Picture 18K gold engraved with a footballer's personal motto, sitting where you'd normally expect a serial number. That's the Hublot Big Bang Reloaded Kylian Mbappé, the first watch to come out of the brand's eight-year partnership with the striker.
Built to mark the Big Bang's 20th anniversary, this 44mm piece pairs polished white ceramic with 18K King Gold, with Trust Yourself engraved at 6 o'clock and a gold-toned 10 nodding to his shirt number. The skeletonised anthracite dial shows Hublot's in-house HUB1280 Unico flyback chronograph, complete with a column wheel and a 22K gold rotor.
True to its name, the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux is a clean three-hand dress watch that gives away nothing about what it can do, until you press a single button at 7:30 and two extra hands materialise out of thin air. Featuring a new in-house PF053 calibre with 362 components, the watch runs a triple-clutch construction (one vertical, two horizontal) that lets the chronograph hands appear on the first press, stop on the second, and vanish entirely on the third, returning the dial to its resting three-hand state. It operates at 4Hz with a 60-hour power reserve, all inside a slim 40mm steel-and-platinum case topped with a mineral-blue, hand-guilloché dial.
This is the first time the Chronomaster Sport collection has gone fully openworked. The dial exposes the El Primero 3600 SK in full: the blue-finished column wheel, the horizontal clutch, and the tri-colour counters that have identified this family since 1969. Unlike standard Chronomaster Sport models, the skeleton line also omits the date window at the 4:30 position to provide perfect dial symmetry. The 41mm steel case comes with a black or green ceramic bezel, and the movement still runs at 5Hz for an accurate tenth-of-a-second reading, backed by 60 hours of power reserve. Zenith also debuted a new folding clasp with tool-free micro-adjustment, so even the strap got a rethink this year.