Zegna’s Latest Collection Is A Return to Torino
From founder-first habits to the near-mythic Vellus Aureum suit, ZEGNA’s FW25 collection reclaims the ease of true Italian craftsmanship
One might think of ZEGNA as the master of quiet luxury long before the term was flattened into an Instagram caption. But perhaps one might forget that the brand’s entire language of refinement can be traced back to a specific place—Torino—and to a founder who brought his own fabrics to a tailor because he trusted his cloth more than convention.
For more than a century now, Zegna has held that place in menswear: half of it a legacy atelier, the other half a cultural barometer for what true Italian elegance should look like. In 1910, when Ermenegildo Zegna founded his wool mill in Trivero, the ambition wasn’t merely to weave better fabrics; it was to define how a man should move through the world. And now, it seems like he’s finding his way back to it.
For Fall/Winter 2025, ZEGNA returns to that origin point, not sentimentally, but with a kind of precision that only a century-old house can afford.
Torino style, as reintroduced this season, isn’t a nostalgic silhouette pulled out of an archive. It’s a way of dressing that emerged from Ermenegildo Zegna’s own habits: structured shoulders that held their shape under real-life movement, wide lapels that balanced proportions without imposing drama, and pockets—rounded, either flap or patch—that softened the geometry of tailoring. The raised buttonhole, borrowed from the 232 Road mark, is one of those details that you might miss unless you know what you’re looking at, which is precisely why it matters.
The centrepiece of the collection is a new Vellus Aureum suit. This is the fibre that, historically, Zegna guarded almost obsessively—so rare that it shaped more myth than marketing. This season, it arrives as a flannel with a near-weightless hand. The suit’s interior architecture, its silk linings, and the hand-finished trousers recall couture methods without turning the garment into something untouchable. What Zegna achieves here is an equilibrium – between the structures and the luxury.
Across the collection, tailoring holds its authority, but it isn’t stiff. Jackets open cleanly, shoulders sit assured, and the proportions feel grounded rather than experimental. In an era when men’s suiting either goes oversized for effect or engineered for performance, ZEGNA’s approach lands somewhere more lived-in. The clothes appear ready for real routines—work, travel, even the occasional formality—without compromising the discipline that defines the house.
The campaign, led by Global Ambassador Mads Mikkelsen, takes the narrative back to Teatro Regio di Torino, where Ermenegildo once commissioned his famed Vellus Aureum suit. Mikkelsen moves through the opera house and the Alpine outskirts the way the collection intends: unhurried, composed, almost blending into the architecture. It’s an expression of Italianità that feels rooted rather than romantic—Torino’s colonnades, its habit of slow espresso breaks, its understated cadence of life.
If the previous seasons were about expanding categories and experimenting with softness, FW25 is about clarity. The brand doesn’t reinvent its tailoring; it reasserts why it matters. You may or may not be a suit person, but ZEGNA’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection makes a compelling case for adopting its rhythm. Because well, as they say, “it’s not just a suit; it’s a Zegna.”