The Menswear Shows That Deserved More Hype This Paris Mens Fashion Week

You know that it's a good fashion season when every new week drowns out the chatter over the previous one. We're currently in the midst of Paris Couture Week, and boy has it been an absolute delight. With that Valentino show, and Robert Wun, Gaurav Gupta and Viktor and Rolf living up to everything we expect from their houses and more, couture week has been more than satisfying. Which only means that it's hard to keep track of everything that's going on in fashion right now, and harder even to remember shows from the previous weeks that did not take up eighty percent of your screentime, but deserve their flowers nevertheless.

Which is why we made a quick recap of the best Fall-winter ready to wear collections from the Men's Fashion Week in Paris. As it stands, Paris exceeded the expectations set by Milan for menswear. Colours and florals were finally in, while designers explored silhouettes (to come to no single conclusion as the menswear silhouettes of the season). We also did a trend analysis of the men's shoes at Paris here:

As for the collections that need your attention, read on.

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe

Junya Watanabe centered his show on the tailored wool coat, an unexpected focus for him. Presented in a subdued setting with Miles Davis and café tables, the mood leaned somber, evoking mysterious detectives and jazz musicians. Coats ranged from classic camel styles with martingales to long navy admiral cuts with middy collars. Tailoring merged with sport elements, including bomber backs with fur hoods, Perfecto leather fronts set into herringbone, and Mammut-style down channels worked into wool. Patchwork jackets opened the show, updated with glossy shawl lapels, white shirts, and black ties. Models looked downcast (quite literally) in shiny dress shoes, with top hats, tuxedo pants, and a mostly black, gray, and camel palette reinforcing the restraint.

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus

Rei Kawakubo titled the collection “Black Hole” and sent out models in fright wigs and masks recalling slasher films and Friday The 13th. Black tailoring was cut apart, with altered lapels, hems, and button placements exposing white shirts and silvery layers underneath. The intervention on classic suiting felt controlled and visually sharp rather than chaotic. Texture came through puckering and knotting, adding dimension across the lineup. Footwear carried hand-painted slogans on double-layer black derby shoes reading “Strong Will” and “My Energy Comes from Freedom.” interestingly, despite the dark framing, the presentation carried an undercurrent of optimism through its surfaces, construction, and messaging.

Magliano

Luca Magliano brought his Bologna-based label to Paris this season, keeping his familiar cast of unconventional models and poetic Italian wardrobe. The show featured 31 looks and ran with live whistling as the soundtrack. The edit felt deliberate, with no sense of excess, and the pacing made the lineup feel complete rather than brief. Magliano’s strength remained in making classic garments look personal and worn-in, with a sense of lived experience built into the styling and silhouettes. The emotional pull came from restraint and clarity rather than scale.

Sacai

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Chitose Abe drew on Muhammad Ali for the season, even placing an image of him mid-punch on a black top styled with boxing shorts. The back carried the quote, “What you are thinking is what you are becoming.” Fusion shaped the collection, with men’s and pre-fall 2026 womenswear brought closer together through coed looks. The opening lineup focused on formal shirts, loosened ties, and trouser-skirt hybrids cut from single pieces. Cargo pants were sliced and rebuilt into asymmetrical skirts and layered trousers. A new gray pinstripe three-piece included a jacket and a trouser-skirt hybrid.

YSL (apart from the front row)

YSL

The front row at Saint Laurent was, as the internet dubbed it, the "boyfriend convention", whatwith the male lead at every romantic movie and series being in attendance. Anthony Vaccarello based Winter 2026 on James Baldwin’s Giovanni’s Room, exploring the shift from private night to public morning. Silhouettes followed lean lines with sharp shoulders, while fabrics appeared soft and crumpled within the house’s black palette. The focus moved toward the intimacy of dressing, framed as a morning-after ritual. The approach marked a step away from spectacle and toward steady development of house codes, examining masculinity through vulnerability and control in equal measure.

Dries Van Noten

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Julian Klausner, a year into leading Dries Van Noten, leaned into the brand’s archive, including early-2000s kilts. The show opened with slender, slightly military coats, reinforcing tailored outerwear as key for the season. Many featured detachable knitted collars, highlighting knitwear as a focus. Motifs included botanicals, florals, Fair Isle, stripes, paisleys, checks, and geometric prints. The mix was extensive but held together through a muted palette. Klausner also revisited shades linked to the house’s Francis Bacon-inspired womenswear from fall 2009. The narrative followed a coming-of-age theme across the layered looks.

Ami Paris

Alexandre Mattiussi presented a preppy wardrobe filtered through French polish, with touches of grunge through ball caps and beanies. Roomy tailoring and layered styling anchored the show. Many looks centered on full-legged trousers paired with oversized wool coats suited to both formal and casual settings. The cast suggested varied characters, from tomboys and art students to jocks and femmes fatales. Styling mixed satin balloon skirts with fitted sweaters and derbies, and pencil skirts with hoodies. The tone stayed low key, with the strength of the collection carried by proportion and everyday wearability.