Is Tender Masculinity The Future Of Menswear?

Besides the obvious heat wave dogging Europe, it was hard to overlook the all-pervading mist of soft romanticism enveloping menswear showcases at the recently concluded Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks. Perhaps a reaction to the difficult war-ravaged times which confront us, designers offered a poetic exploration of resilience, reinvention, and the fluidity of sartorial expression. The season saw a delicious loosening up of the dress codes. Dior, Saint Laurent, Dries Van Noten, Simone Rocha, Jacquemus and Dolce & Gabbana distilled their core design aesthetic into fluid unstructured silhouettes, lightweight pieces and warm hues. Romantic details, delicate fabrics, and exuberant surface texturing brought home the point that masculinity needn't be synonymous with the rigid rules of straitlaced tailoring. Fragility can be fearless too. Enter short shorts and tie-up ballet flats. Part preppy, part punk!

At Dolce & Gabbana, open-weave tailoring and fluid white trousers made a strong case for freedom, movement and weightlessness. Relaxed fits embodying ease characterised by precision is the way to go forward. At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello got rid of the house's signature shoulder pads sending out suiting and trench coats in luscious jewel-toned textiles. Dior's deconstructed suits were crafted from translucent silk chiffon; the brand's signature houndstooth motif was printed and polka dots were mixed up with sequins. The house's artistic director Jonathan Anderson presented an embroidered silk shirt which mimicked a trompe l’oeil scarf motif from 1979 Dior haute couture. Clearly a masterclass in borrowing from the girls! Moreover, an array of Regency-core tuxedos had roomy fits. Rooting for lightness and fragility, the showcase saw relaxed, softened tailoring ripped into fringes, collegiate shirts being paired with bouclé denim and distressed details coated with couture-like embroidery. Indie sleaze scarves, disco pants, luxe outerwear thrown on bare chest conjured a rave scenario where champagne flows endlessly. Designed to battle heat and underscoring ease, Dolce & Gabbana's Sicilian narrative translated into lightweight summer suits, laser-cut and perforated tailoring, broderie anglaise shirts, open-knit pieces, micro shorts, silk pyjama-inspired sets, tunics, and relaxed trousers. Picture a Mediterranean summer punctuated by sun-drenched brunches and coastal dinners minus any formality.

Julian Klausner at Dries Van Noten looked at the world of lingerie through a menswear lens. Lyrical and lightweight and apt to be worn in the sweltering heat. Hence came in washes of pale colour, wispy and voluminous silk cargo pants and unlined duster worn over wrinkled crepe translucent shirts and micro shorts. At Giorgio Armani, garments were subjected to a great deal of wash and crumple and hence radiated a sun-kissed vibe. Simone Rocha's menswear at Pitti Uomo sent out tailored jackets with gaping, ruffle-accented cut-out details at the back. Some of the looks were accented with lilac-toned organza feather boas. The airy lightness seems to be the new-age machismo.

Designer Dhruv Vaish observes that designers are taking a radical departure from defining masculinity through dated ideas. "There's more room today for emotion, softness and individuality, and clothing is responding to that. It’s about accepting masculinity as it is and allowing clothes to feel lighter, more personal and more intuitive," says Dhruv.

In many ways, these ideas have always existed here. "Indian clothing has long embraced ease, drape and movement. The interesting part will be how Indian designers interpret these ideas through local textiles and craft rather than simply following what's happening internationally. That's when it starts to feel authentic. Clothes should resonate with people not with the idea of imitating the international brands and copy pasting the same," he adds. Tapan Bisht, Brand Head, Vercelli India observes that for years, menswear was synonymous with structured tailoring and traditional definition of masculinity. "Today, tailoring hasn’t disappeared, it has evolved. Softer shoulder constructions, lighter canvassing, fluid silhouettes and breathable fabrics are creating garments that offer ease without compromising elegance or craftsmanship." What stood out at Milan and Paris was that structure came through exceptional fabrics, natural drape and movement rather than stiffness. "As someone from the luxury fabric industry, I believe fabric and tailoring are inseparable. The right cloth allows bespoke tailoring to feel lighter, more comfortable and effortlessly refined. To me, this is the future of luxury - where craftsmanship, comfort and individuality coexist," he adds. Open weaves, lightweight wools and linen blends allow garments to drape naturally while remaining breathable and elegant. "Bespoke has always been about creating clothing around the individual, not the trend. I believe this isn’t a passing phase but the natural evolution of luxury menswear, where comfort, craftsmanship and personal expression come together," quips Tapan.

Here are some fluid, softly tailored looks that stood out:

Dries Van Noten

This delicate apron-like look fastened by ribbon details feels soft and intimate.

Dior

This ripped knitwear cardigan radiates a collegiate vibe befitting a Bibliophile.

Canali

Lightweight supple layering inspired by the Spice Route evoked instant desirability.

Saint Laurent

This luscious jewel-toned languid pieces informed by the house's storied womenswear is on our wish list.

Paul Smith

This holiday suit worn with an open collar shirt is ideal for a Mediterranean vacay.

Simone Rocha

Absolutely dig the pairing of this long coat with textured shorts. Scholarly yet deceptively chic!

Jacquemus

This fluid textured tank top with a serrated hemline is ideal to beat the ongoing heat wave.