Synonymous with hushed temple grounds, vermillion torii gates and the rustle of kimono-clad footsteps in Gion’s narrow alleys, Kyoto by day is steeped in tradition. But after dark, the old Japanese capital sheds its reserved elegance for an underground bar scene that is anything but predictable.
Most of these bars unfold along Pontocho Alley, the city’s answer to Tokyo’s Golden Gai, where you’ll find several jazz bars lined up together. Hidden in plain sight, these aren’t hotel lounges or tourist-packed izakayas (casual bars)—they’re creative hubs tucked behind unmarked doors and narrow lanes. Many cluster along Pontocho Alley, while others remain elusive despite Kyoto’s tourist boom. From speakeasies disguised as bookstores to hip-hop fuelled bars, here are four must-visit spots.
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Beatle Momo
Hidden behind an unassuming facade near Pontocho Alley, this vinyl heaven houses over 3,000 records collected by its cool, bow-tie-wearing owner, Momo, who doubles as DJ and bartender. The space feels less like a conventional bar and more like the living room of that impossibly cool friend whose record collection spans decades and genres. The whisky selection features bottles that range from accessible to rare. The bar seats only 15—and the best part? They let you pick the songs.
Drink this: Their house Old Fashioned, crafted with Nikka From The Barrel blended whisky.
Bee’s Knees
The yellow door with ‘The Book Store’ sign in Kiyamachi district hides Kyoto’s finest cocktail den. Bee’s Knees hits you with a beautiful contradiction—a Prohibition-era aesthetic pulsing with ’90s hip-hop. Inside, the space is intimate yet electric, with low lighting, exposed brick and a playlist that leans more Biggie than Bing Crosby. A distinctly Japanese reinterpretation of cocktails elevates this bar—the eponymous cocktail replaces lemon with yuzu, while their Negroni incorporates hoji tea and coffee bitters. Four mentions on Asia’s 50 Best Bars list isn’t a coincidence—it really is Kyoto’s most essential drinking establishment.
Drink this: The Truffle Bee’s Knees, a citrusy gin-based cocktail with a hint of truffle.
Bar Alchemist
Tucked above the bustling Pontocho district, Bar Alchemist also requires intention to discover. The space is dark, polished, almost theatrical—bottles glow under soft light and the air hums with low, jazzy beats. The bar has an innovative approach to classic cocktails, transforming familiar recipes with unexpected ingredients. Jazz plays softly in the background and the seating is relaxed yet intimate.
Drink this: The Golden Negroni, a signature concoction that combines gin, suze and ginger.
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White Door Speakeasy
In Nakagyo Ward, the White Door Speakeasy lives up to its name—an unmarked white door that oblivious pedestrians walk past daily. This 20-year-old establishment is the size of a typical living room, with just 10 seats hugging a bar crafted from darkened cedar. The walls are adorned with an archive of cassettes and vinyl records that you can select for yourselves. The drinks are unfussy, but exquisite, rooted in the Japanese tradition.
Drink this: Their house Umeshu (a Japanese plum liqueur).
Best time to visit
Kyoto’s bar scene thrives year-round, but the best time is in spring (March to May) and autumn (September to November). Avoid the sweltering summer months when humidity lingers late into the night. Similarly, winter sees some smaller bars closing early.
Local drinks to try
The Yuzu Highball is a refreshing take on Japan’s whisky soda, with a citrus-y zing. Or try Umeshu for a mellow nightcap. For something uniquely local, you must also try Kyoto’s craft gin Ki No Bi. Matcha-infused concoctions are a must try, too.
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