The Ritual Of Dining At The Loya
At Loya in the Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, each ingredient in each dish is given the space - and the respect - to shine.
It begins, like most things in Mumbai, with a scent. The scent of saffron and warm stone, quite different from that of the mandarin oil and jasmine that linger in the lobby of The Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai. I’ve travelled across the sea, from Bandra to Colaba, to lunch at Loya, which, since its opening in February, has managed to maintain a roster of dedicated fans in a city that gets bored easily.
Entering the restaurant is like stepping into the vibrant caravanserai of a lost kingdom. Carved chandeliers like ancient reliquaries hang from the ceiling. The light lingers like a patient lover, diffused through copper lanterns. The murals on the walls tell stories of a lost age - beautiful women peek at distinguished men on horseback from the safety of their painted balconies, muslin veils hiding their beauty and the soft flutter of their breath.
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Everything at Loya suggests ceremony - the symmetrical arrangement of the chairs, the specially curated music, the shot of jal-jeera that arrives when I do, and of course, the mammoth grey stone block, quarried from Rajasthan’s Dholpur, placed behind a bar which looks more like an alchemist’s station. Of course, this is how it is supposed to look. This is how it is supposed to make you feel.
“The attempt is to create a holistic dining experience and take inspiration from the way food used to be cooked long ago. The raconteur service associates and chefs engage with the guests during the meal period which ensures that the patrons are more aware of the sensory elements of the food,” says Rajesh Wadhwa, the restaurant’s Brand Chef. These associates, as Chef Wadhwa calls them, patiently explain the process of dhungar, baghar, dum and sigdi. We’re also told that each piece of handmade cutlery is unique, crafted by the artisans of Moradabad. I lift a fork, feel the uneven edges. It feels heavy and warm. And comfortable.
This awareness and knowledge - the story - behind each dish, drink and decanter does make the experience more enjoyable. We nod and smile as our server explains the Loya Paanch - the restaurant’s take on drinks inspired by the number ‘5’ and its significance across the country. “The five rivers of the North, the five senses, the five elements,” she says. And closer home, she adds (as does the menu card), it resonates with the five tenets of Loya’s cocktail philosophy - Harmony, Experimentation, Authenticity, Reverence, and The Spirit.
I pick an aperitif from the ‘Authenticity’ section called Gulab, only because it sounds poetic. It reminds me of beauty, youth, and love, and when it does arrive, it looks unassuming like most beautiful things do. And yet, like most beautiful things, it is stunning in its complexity. It’s vodka-based; water and ethanol, perfumed with cardamom, softened by pineapple, and finished with a spritz of citrus and rose.
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The philosophy, Chef Wadhwa explains, is to make optimum use of the ingredients without overdoing it. “This ensures that the uniqueness shines through,” he explains. The fact that his team sources each ingredient from its place of origin helps make every dish and beverage feel authentic.
In fact, my plus one and I play a game every time we take a bite. Is that cardamom we taste? No, it’s turmeric. That’s coriander now, and of course, there’s cumin. Obviously, that’s saffron. This is something I appreciate - being able to taste what I’m eating, being able to name what makes the dish. Nothing overpowers. Each ingredient is given the space and respect to shine.
The restaurant channels all its excess into the décor - not the food. It’s easy on the palate. The spice level, however, barely registers on the Scoville scale. Then again, this works for many guests who dine at the Taj Mahal Palace - especially NRI folks and white businessmen looking for a ‘taste of India’. While each dish at Loya has its share of admirers, the Kangra Khodiya Gosht is special. This pahadi-style dish involves succulent mutton pieces that have been cooked in a special curry that involves, amongst other things, hand-ground charred walnut ink.
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The walnut ink is one of Loya’s “odes to sustainability”, where the entire walnut - shell and all - gets charred in hot charcoal ember, to achieve what the team calls “Z black colour, i.e. Walnut Ink”. “This can be achieved only by roasting it to the core, and later, we grind it into a fine powder and mix that with oil. We slowly braise the lamb morsel with walnut ink and finish it with fennel seed powder and dry mango powder, and garnish with charred walnuts,” says Chef Wadhwa.
And what else is a must-try, especially if you’re an omnivore? “Gosht Ki Pasliyan, Lakhori Murgh Tikka, among the starters, Bhangjeer Murgh and Nalli Gosht in the main course - although this is like being asked to choose between siblings,” he says with a laugh, signing off.