
NOT UNTIL TOO LONG AGO, WOULD one have wondered that a gastronomic mecca of sorts, decadent enough to lure travellers from across the globe, would come up in Dubai? Ignorance might be bliss in other aspects, but for me, it hasn’t paid much dividend. Despite visiting the city several times over the years, I've somehow never opened my taste buds to what’s silently but surely been building in one of my favourite cities in the world: a food haven of the highest order. Michelin-approved, too.
Especially since 2022, when the inaugural edition of the Michelin Guide Dubai was unveiled. So, when the opportunity presented itself to go and experience its fifth edition, I knew I was in for something incredible. Especially because on the agenda was eating. A lot. Food prepared by some of Dubai’s incredible Michelin Star chefs. I’d have been stupid to say no, and I didn’t.
The name means ‘gemstone’ in Japanese, and nothing could be more fitting for this spectacular, minimalist—there are only 17 seats—restaurant at the Bvlgari Resort Dubai. If you love Japanese cuisine, it’s exactly where you need to be. The restaurant won a Michelin Star in 2022 and has held it since, and for good reason. Chef Masahiro Sugiyama will win you over first with his smile and then his outstanding food. Feel free to talk to him while he goes about his work—he can keep you quite entertained with his stories and anecdotes.
As for the food, it’s Japanese cuisine inarguably at its finest. Chef Sugiyama keeps changing it to ensure no two meals are the same, but I’m sure all of it is just as exceptional. The Hairy Crab, with its exquisite depth of flavour and tantalising butteriness, shall always remain on the mind.
Mohamad Orfali, the eldest of the three Orfali brothers, is chatty and exuberant, and will win you over immediately. That he’s a supremely talented chef further adds to his appeal. A meal at this restaurant will certainly change your perception of Middle Eastern fare. The restaurant has now moved up to Two Michelin Stars this year and is now the first-ever Middle Eastern Two Michelin Star restaurant globally—once you’ve eaten here, you’ll understand why.
Interestingly, it’s one of those rare restaurants that are constantly changing their menu: four times since December 2025, so don’t expect anything obvious. For instance, the kombucha-infused drinks here are quite a testament to the brothers’ ability to take things in an interesting direction. The star, though, is definitely the food. My favourite was the Wagyu Beef Kibbeh Mishwieh, where the flavours of the tender meat merged beautifully with the bulgur wheat shell, rounding off with some charcoal-smoked bone marrow that was just out of this world.
In Thai, ‘manao’ means ‘lime’, and the restaurant is every bit as zestful. Founded by Mohamad Orfali (didn’t I tell you the man is talented?) in collaboration with the Indian-origin chef Abhiraj Khatwani, MANAO serves modern Thai food with quite a flair. If you can appreciate seafood with a side of spice, this is where you need to head to. Particularly for the Lobster Khanom Krok (fermented rice custard with grilled lobster tail and coriander flowers) and Grilled King Crab Shoulder. The former balanced sweet heat and texture like nowhere else and the latter uses light fermentation to enhance the subtle sweetness and succulence of the thick shoulder cluster meat.
MANAO made headlines after winning its first Michelin Star last year, just five months after opening, so you can be sure there’s something truly special about the place. As a lover of Thai food, this meal was the best I had in Dubai. When the restaurant retained its Michelin Star at this year’s ceremony, I was screaming the loudest in jubilation.
Where does one begin? Yes, the food is extraordinary. But so is the decor, music, service and even the selection of teas they have on offer. Walking into Row on 45 is a full-on sensory explosion—you don’t know where to look, what to photograph and what to marvel at. I’d truly suggest taking your time looking at it all, even before you sit down for your meal. And when you do come to the food, you’re going to be overwhelmed yet again, for Chef Jason Atherton’s menu can’t easily be rivalled by most other places. There’s a reason the restaurant has two Michelin Stars, right?
The flavours range from Japanese to Mediterranean, Asian to British, all coming together with ease. For instance, there’s the Welsh rarebit reimagined as Kari Buto that marries the tangy bite of the British classic with a flavourfully Japanese sense of terroir. Also special is Kutchan 540, made with potatoes cultivated and matured for 540 days. Row on 45 is the only restaurant outside Japan to serve these exceptional, snow-aged potatoes known for their distinct sweetness and velvety texture.
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