For a city that takes its alcohol rather seriously, it was only time that Delhi’s bar scene went through a massive transformation. With people getting both curious and conscious about what they’re drinking, the city’s bars are busy whipping up cocktails that are truly out of the ordinary. As a result, the F&B space has really heated up with competition and options are aplenty should you be looking for a cool new bar to check out.
One such place is Lair, a modern speakeasy that was recently crowned as the best bar in India in the Top 30 Best Bars list for 2024. Anyone who has enjoyed a drink (or more) here will rave about the phenomenal experience the place offers.
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We caught up with Navjot Singh Janjua, Beverage Director at Lair to learn more about perfecting a cocktail, making of a great bar and the spirit that’s going to reign supreme in 2025.
Esquire: What do you think made Lair get the top spot on the 30 Best Bars in India list?
Navjot Singh Janjua: We weren’t working for a title. We were just working to excel, take on more challenges, and improve every day. People come here and walk out the door happy. That’s our award, and I believe that is what has made us the number one bar in the country.
ESQ: Tell us about what truly makes a bar great.
NSJ: I have been asked this question several times and what I always say is that the secret sauce to making a bar great is simply the team you work with. Consistency, too, is a part of the process and that’s where the real test of a good bar lies.
ESQ: Tell us about an old cocktail that has made a comeback.
NSJ: Picante is currently all the rage in India. We are happy to report that we played a big role in turning Picante into a standout drink. Picante was first crafted in SoHo House, London. However, four years ago, Lair made its own Picante and it became so famous that every bar in the country started making their version of the same. We sell more than 120 Picantes every evening at each of our bars!
ESQ: Have sweet cocktails taken a backseat?
NSJ: Sweet cocktails have taken a backseat because people are conscious about their health. When I started bartending, 13 years ago, people wanted something sweet and easy-going. They didn’t want to taste the spirit in their drinks but with the cocktail culture growing in India and everyone becoming health-conscious, they’re concerned about the number of calories they consume per drink. Moreover, most people have an acquired taste. They are also willing to enjoy pure liquor. I think in the next 2-3 years, people will tilt more towards sour and easy drinks with little to no sugar.
ESQ: Why are we gravitating towards savoury, spicy, and surprising drinks?
NSJ: We are in the era of experimentation, everyone’s becoming more adventurous with their palates. With more people travelling frequently, there is a strong culinary influence too. People see different things in different parts of the world, and they are happy to try everything.
ESQ: Does that mean that the lines between the kitchen and the bar have blurred?
NSJ: Yes, of course, because many kitchen techniques have made it to the bar now. Bartenders are the new chefs. I remember almost six years ago when people used to visit a restaurant, they’d ask who's the chef. Now, whenever someone steps into the bar, they want to know who the head bartender or mixologist is. A lot has changed because more collaborations now occur between chefs and bartenders and there are ingredient crossovers, too. This has led to the rise of gastronomical bartending.
ESQ: Is there an Indian ingredient which is being incorporated heavily into cocktails everywhere?
NSJ: “An extensively used Indian ingredient over the years would be cinnamon and star anise. Of course, India is the country of spices, but we also have other spices other than the two I mentioned. We have black pepper, gondhoraj lime. However, in the past two years what I have noticed is that gondhoraj lime has been used a lot in other bars and it is something we enjoy using too. Think gondhoraj margaritas and gondhoraj infused tequila.
ESQ: 2024 was the year of agave and tequila. What do you think 2025 will be all about?
NSJ: Since people have become more health-conscious, they are gravitating towards tequila, because it has fewer calories as compared to other spirits. It will be the same in 2025. However, people will lean towards mezcal which is a more smoky variant of tequila.