Junya Watanabe surprised with a somber, jazz-lit show of tailored wool coats, blending classic camel and navy cuts with sporty, patchworked twists.
Rei Kawakubo’s 'Black Hole' twisted black tailoring with horror masks, sliced suits, knotted textures, and painted slogans, dark yet oddly optimistic.
Luca Magliano debuted in Paris with a restrained, poetic show, 31 looks with live whistling as the soundtrack, unconventional casting, and classic garments looking personal and worn-in.
Chitose Abe drew on Muhammad Ali for the season, merging coed looks with boxing imagery, loosened ties, and reconstructed cargos, asymmetric skirts, a jacket and a trouser-skirt hybrid.
A 'boyfriend convention' front row set the tone as YSL unpacked masculine intimacy via clean lines with sharp shoulders, and examining masculinity through vulnerability and control in equal measure.
Julian Klausner mined the Dries Van Noten archive with kilts, tailored coats, detachable knitted collars, and a muted palette, shaping a coming-of-age story through layered looks.
Alexandre Mattiussi showed preppy French ease with grunge notes, roomy tailoring, oversized coats, and everyday layers suited to both formal and casual settings.